Italy Beyond the Obvious

In and Around the City of Bari

 

Whether you’re interested in soccer, seafood, beaches, shopping, or castles and architecture, it’s worth adding a stop in the small city of Bari (pop. < 400,000) to your Puglia itinerary. Founded by the Greeks, and then under Roman rule starting in the 3rd century BC, there’s lots to do in modern-day Bari. So hold on to your bag, keep your wits about you, and spend a few days enjoying the sights below.

Wander around the Old Town, and visit the Basilica of San Nicolas, with the tomb of the original St. Nicholas.  (Your decision on whether to tell the kids that you’re standing over Santa’s bones).  Don’t miss the city’s Norman castle, Svevo, or its Romanesque Cathedral, St. Sabinus.  Shop in high-end boutiques along the Via Sparano (photo above) or - if you can - get tickets to a football (soccer) match and watch Bari’s Serie A team in the San Nicola Stadium.  Bari’s Teatro Petruzzelli was one of the top opera houses in Italy until it was fire-bombed in 1991, and has been under construction ever since - but is allegedly reopening before 2010.  Eat gelato and people-watch along the the seaside promenade, or lungo mare on the edge of town.  And if you’re in the mood for some local food, try the riso, patate e cozze (rice, potatoes, and mussels).

Nearby

• Relax on the beaches at Torre Canne (photo above), about an hour south of the city.
• Visit the town of Polignano a Mare, about 30 minutes south of the city, and eat in its restaurant-in-a-grotto (photo). Note: the restaurant gets a lot of publicity because of its unique feature, but in general it has mixed reviews: most agree that it’s expensive with small portions, and that you pay for the ambiance.
• Go see the Castel del Monte (photo below) about 40 km west of the city.
• Visit the cone-shaped Trulli dwellings in the town of Alberobello.

 

Genealogical Research

If you’re looking for relatives or ancestors from the area, try searching the Church of the Latter Day Saints’ website, and/or use the Italian white pages online to find people.

Photo of Palazzo Mincuzzi by Paolo Margari.it; Photo of the beach at Torre Canne by Topo .; Photo of Castel del Monte from www.istockphoto.com

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The Truly Cool Trulli Dwellings of Alberobello

Fabulous for photography, but not so much for an off-the-beaten-track experience, the UNESCO World Heritage Site and town of Alberobello is famous for its white-washed, conical-roofed trulli dwellings. 

The History of the Trulli

Much about the origins of the trulli remains a mystery, but a few things are known: the trulli were originally peasant houses, built without mortar by creating a cone shape using pieces of limestone found in nearby fields. The cone was originally built directly on the ground, (not sitting atop four walls as it does today), and is capped still today with a ball and then a pinnacle, the former being analagous to the keystone of an arch: pull it out and the whole structure falls apart. 

For this reason, and because no mortar was used, one theory about the origins of the trulli is that they were built to avoid paying taxes: anyone who built on the king's land in the middle ages owed taxes to the king. In theory, the trulli could be quickly dismantled for the tax collector's visit, and then rebuilt again afterwards (existing trulli are held together with mortar, so don't worry about someone accidentally pulling the house down on your head). The trulli around today are just 500 years old, which could support the theory that they were pulled down and rebuilt. 

Trulli Basics

Many trulli have decorative symbols painted on their roofs, tied to pre-Christian, solar, Jewish, or pagan cults. Each trulli roof marks just one room: the layout includes a living room, dining room, kitchen, and sleeping nooks. When a family wanted to expand, they would build a second trullo next to the first, and punch a hole in the walls to connect the two. Even today, trulli are heated by only a central stove, however due to their extremely thick walls, they stay naturally cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The roofs are built with channels, so rainwater is collected in underground tanks. 

Tourism in Alberobello

You won't need directions once you get to Alberobello; the tourist itinerary is well-marked. Many of the trulli have been turned into tourist shops, and if you visit one, there is some pressure to buy a souvenir of some sort. I've heard Alberobello described as both "over the top touristy", and "a photographer's paradise", so you decide whether it's worth it. 

Alberobello is the trulli capital, but if it's too touristy for you, trulli can also be found in the towns of Locorotondo, Fasano, Cisternino, Martina Franca, and Ceglie Messapica. If you would like to stay in the area, Martina Franca is a good less-touristy bet.

Getting There

Alberobello's train station is a 15-minute walk - with a couple short, steep hills - from the beginning of the main street. The trains to Alberobello are reliable, but can be slow (for example the train from Bari is 90 minutes, by car it's 60 minutes). If you're just doing a daytrip from Bari or Taranto, the train is convenient. But if Alberobello is just one stop on a Puglia itinerary, consider renting a car or taking the bus.

Photo of Trulli from www.istockphoto.com

Photo of trullo with laundry by alizzze

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