Italy Beyond the Obvious

Five favorite hikes in Italy - guest post at Italylogue

It was a challenge to narrow down my list of favorite hikes in Italy to just five for Jessica at Italylogue (but I did it!) The hikes I ended up picking include the Dolomites, Lake Como, Liguria, the Amalfi Coast, and Sicily. Notably missing from the list is the Cinque Terre - don't worry, I explain why.

So head on over to Italylogue and read about all the details!

That's me hiking in Ortisei. Photo by Sanjay.   

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Seven weeks of travel in Italy

How would you spend your time if you had seven weeks to travel in Italy? My husband and I had that opportunity before we moved from Milan to the USA, and because I get the "what should I see in Italy" question so often, I thought I'd share what we decided to see on that particular trip, and why we chose each place.

If it had been our first trip to Italy, I would have started with something along the lines of Jessica's (aka Italylogue's) fabulous two week detailed Italy itinerary (which as she explains you can easily stretch out to 3 weeks or more). But after 5 years in Italy I'd done all that, so our itinerary became a mix of places neither of us had been (Dolomites, Isola della Maddalena, and Ischia), and places I'd been but my husband hadn't.  

 

 

The Dolomites  We started at the end of June, and spent a week hiking in the Val Gardena in the Dolomite mountains. Why we chose it: We both love hiking, and July is the perfect month to visit the Dolomites, because it's warm and not as crowded as August. Some of the most incredible hikes I've ever done were on this trip - and I grew up hiking in the Rocky Mountains.

Tuscany  We rented a car and spent 10 days in Tuscany exploring the countryside. We also hit Siena, San Gimignano, Monteriggioni, Montepulciano and Pienza. Why we chose it: It was partly a wandering-the-hills-of-Tuscany trip for photography (which meant early mornings), looking for fields of sunflowers and just waking up in the morning and doing what we felt like that day.

 

Naples, Pompeii, and Ischia  We spent 5 days in Naples, then hit the archaeological ruins of Pompeii and spent 4 days on the island of Ischia. Since it was high season, we chose Ischia over the island of Capri because there were fewer crowds. We rented motorinos on Ischia to get around, and loved Ischia's natural hot springs. Why we chose it: I like the balance of putting Naples, Pompeii and Ischia together, because you start with a big vibrant city, then visit an incredible must-see attraction (but with lots of tourists), and then end with off-the-beaten-track island beach time. 

The Amalfi Coast  We spent 4 days on the Amalfi Coast after driving on impossibly narrow and twisting roads over the mountain from Naples -- which I would not recommend for any couple ;) Why we chose it: I had been, and wanted to go back with my husband because it's such a romantic spot (or became romantic after we made up post mountain-crossing!)

 
 
 

Isola Maddalena, Sardinia  We flew to Sardinia and then took a boat to Isola Maddalena and spent a week exploring the island, lying on the beach, going for bike rides, and SCUBA  diving (I got my certification there). Why we chose it: With only a week, we didn't have nearly enough time to visit the huge island of Sardinia, so we chose 1 spot, saw it well, and relaxed.

Sicily  We spent 2 weeks on the island of Sicily, which I've written about before. Why we chose it: I had been to Sicily before and wanted to go back. Sicily is another great place for a balanced vacation. We climbed a volcano, lay on the beach, walked through Greek ruins, spent time in large bustling cities, saw incredible art, and ate and drank well. 

So that adds up to a little more than 7 weeks believe it or not! (We actually had more time off, and also took a week to go up to Switzerland and see the Montreux Jazz Festival, on at the end of July every year.) And after all that, am I satisfied? Well, yes. But my still-to-visit list in Italy is long, because when you go to Italy with a list of things to see, you don't come home with everything checked off. You come home with a longer list.

Photos: me hiking in the Dolomites, detail from the Nile Scene mosaic at the archaeological museum in Naples, view from Isola Maddalena of the bridge to Caprera. All photos by Sanjay.

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Five spectacular hikes on the island of Capri

Capri is a walker's paradise, full of incredible views and scenery, so here are five walks to experience it firsthand. Wear proper shoes, long socks or long pants so your legs don't get scratched, and don't forget a hat, sunscreen, water, and - in June through August - bug repellent.

 

 

1. The famous Via Krupp (photo above), considered to be one of the prettiest roads in the world, reopened in June 2008 after a 30 year restoration. To get there, start at the Piazzetta Umberto I in Capri, and follow Via Vittorio Emanuele to Via Matteoti, which then hits Via Krupp. Before heading down the path, consider visiting the beautiful Gardens of Augustus or the Carthusian Monastery, both right at the top of the trail. At the bottom, you'll be at Marina Piccola (small marina), where you can have a drink or go for a swim.

 

2. From the Piazzetta in the town of Capri head down Via Vittorio Emanuele to Via Camerelle, then follow Via Tragara towards the Arco Naturale (Natural Arch, photo above). Follow the signs, stopping at Le Grotelle restaurant for a drink or lunch, and then head down a steep hill to the gorgeous Cave of Matermania. From there, the path takes you down to the Punta Tragara, with incredible views of the famous Faraglioni rocks. This trail has lots of steps, both up and down, but the end part from Punta Tragara back to the town of Capri is an easy wander.

 

3. Hike to the top of Monte Solaro, Capri's highest point (photo above). Allow about 1 - 1.5 hours for the hike, or take the chairlift, which is just a 12 minute ride and which you can take up or down. There are a few trails up, but the easiest is from the main square in Anacapri: head towards the Villa San Michele, but before reaching the villa, take a narrow road to your right signposted "Monte Solaro", and follow it to the top (which is visible the entire time anyway). Once up there, don't rush down: you'll have a 360 degree view of the island, so buy a drink or lunch at the top and enjoy.

 

4. There is a relatively new walking path along the coast between the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra, photo below) to the Lighthouse, called the Path of the Little Forts, or The Old Walk of the Forts (photo above). Both ends of this 6 km trail can be reached by bus, but the path is easier if you start at the lighthouse and walk to the Blue Grotto rather than the reverse. If you can, time it to watch the sunset. Allow about 3 hours for the hike and note that while tour boats are going in and out of the Grotto you can not swim - but wait until 5 pm and you'll likely be allowed in the water. Here's a good detailed description of this walk.

 

5. It's a somewhat strenuous 45-minute walk, but worth it: head to the Roman ruins of Villa Jovis from the town of Capri. You'll see incredible views and can visit the archaeological ruin, which was built 2,000 years ago by the Emperor Tiberius. 

More details on the hikes: If you prefer to hike any of these with a guide, I highly recommend Giovanni Visetti. Use the detailed route instructions and elevation maps on his website, or hire him as a private guide. Or, buy the Sunflower Guide, which has excellent instructions and maps of hikes on Capri and all over the Amalfi Coast.

The challenge with Capri is that it can be difficult to get away from the tourists. Walking is a great way to do it (and so is spending time in the town of Anacapri). But if the island in high season isn't your thing, consider visiting the nearby island of Ponza instead. Or, if it's off season and you're not sure about the weather, spend time on Ischia, which has lots of natural hot springs and spas.

Photo of Via Krupp from www.istockphoto.com Photos of natural arch and of view from Monte Solaro by dr_tr; Photo of Sentiero dei Fortini by Fiore S. Barbato; Photo of the Blue Grotto by A Journey Round my Skull 

 

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The Best Hotels in Italy

Travel & Leisure Magazine recently published a list of Best Hotels in the World, based on a reader survey. I pulled the Italy ones from the bunch because it's an interesting list, and because the T&L website doesn't allow you to. Lists of Best Hotels in Italy abound if you do a Google search, but I do like this one (even if it doesn't include my favorite hotel in Italy - probably just as well). 

  

Best Hotels

1) Grand Hotel Baglioni, Bologna

2) Il San Pietro, Positano

3) Westin Palace, Milan

Best Resorts

1) Il San Pietro, Positano

2) Hotel Villa Sant'Andrea, Taormina

3) Grand Hotel Timeo, Taormina

4) Hotel Excelsior, Venice

5) Hotel Caruso Belvedere, Ravello

Best Small Hotels in a City

1) Grand Hotel Villa Cora, Florence

2) Hotel D'Inghilterra, Rome

3) J.K. Place, Florence

4) Boscolo Hotel Palace, Rome

Best Inns & Small Country Hotels

1) La Rosa dei Venti, Positano

2) La Posta Vecchia, Ladispoli (near Rome)

3) Villa Pisani, Vescovana (between Verona and Venice)

4) La Scalinatella, Capri

5) Grand Hotel A Villa Feltrinelli, Gargnano (on Lake Garda)

Top photo of La Posta Vecchia in Ladispoli; Second photo of Villa Sant'Andrea in Taormina; last photo of Villa Feltrinelli in Gargnano

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Unique Rocks In Italy

My favorite rock from Italy is the one I got set at Scavia after my husband proposed on our terrace in Milan. But actually this post is about some very unique and (mostly) natural rock formations worth visiting. Bonus: they're free, and not closed on Mondays.

Best For Daydreaming

Sardinia is sort of known for animal-shaped rocks: check out this giant bear, and the elephant above. I find the rocks in the La Maddalena archipelago, off Sardinia's northern tip, particularly animal-laden. I can't not see animals when looking at them (I mean, that's obviously a polar bear below, right?). 

Most Photographed Rocks

The three faraglioni (Stella, Mezzo, and Scupolo) rise from the sea off the island of Capri, which itself is off the Amalfi Coast and close to Naples. Take a boat out, and kiss your lover as you pass through the arch. 

Most Artistic

Abruzzo's La Morgia is a limestone rock-island in the middle of the countryside sort of kind of near Rome, famous for the sculpture that bridges its notch. The notch was made by dynamite during limestone mining, and Greek artist Costas Varotsos added the artwork: twenty meters wide and eleven meters high, the sculpture is made of steel and green glass and lit from behind, making it quite a landmark. 

Most Fabled

Sicily is, of course, the Island of the Cyclops in Homer's famous Odyssey. But the three tall column-shaped islands off the small town of Aci Trezza, on Sicily's east coast, are referred to as the Islands of the Cyclops by the locals: they were allegedly the stones thrown at Odysseus.

Photo of elephant rock by Fotopusch; Photo of Polar Bear in La Maddalena by Sanjay; Photo of Faraglioni by Paul 'Tuna" Turner; Photo of La Morgia by Villas For 2; Photo of Islands of the Cyclops by Boobelle

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The Amalfi Coast: My Top 5 Recommendations

How much time do I need to see the Amalfi Coast? is a question I get all the time. 

How you spend your time on the Amalfi Coast depends on your interests and travel pace, of course; that said here are the five things I would definitely include on a first visit to the Amalfi Coast. I'd take three full days to do them, mainly because my #1 would take most of a day.

#5. Visit the gorgeous Duomo di Sant'Andrea in the town of Amalfi. If you go in high season, there's a good chance you'll see a wedding taking place. Photo from www.istockphoto.com

#4. Take a boat between Positano and Amalfi (or really, between any of the towns on the coast) to gape at the views of the coastline from the water.

Photo, above, by Sanjay

#3. Have dinner at Don Alfonso's, a (very reasonably priced, considering) three Michelin-star restaurant.

#2. Visit the town of Ravello for the views and for Mamma Agata's fabulous cooking class. Photo, above, of Ravello by Simon.Monk

#1. Since I love hiking and spectacular scenery, my #1 pick for what to do on the Amalfi Coast is to spend 3 hours hiking Il Sentiero Degli Dei, or The Path of The Gods. 

If you're interested in hiking it, click here or here for more photos and detailed information. Know, however, that this path is not busy like the Cinque Terre. You can get lost, and you may not run into many other hikers. So bring a map or hire a guide, set off with plenty of water and food, and plan on being out for about 6 hours. And please if you go, send me photos! Photo by NileGuide

Note that these are my picks for what to do on the Amalfi Coast. Add a another day or so to your trip and visit the islands of Capri or Ischia off the coast. Or go up the mainland and spend a few days seeing Naples, Pompeii or Herculaneum. 

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Naples, Italy's most Italian city

Apologies to Milan, where I have called home, and to Rome, who according to many owns this title. But in Naples, you'll see first-hand where the Italian expression "che sceneggiata Napoletana!", or "What a Neapolitan drama!" comes from. Naples is often described as vibrant or colorful, its people expressive and passionate, its streetlife gritty. In a word, yes, it's one big, messy, fabulous Neapolitan drama.

Keep your tourist checklist, because it's still useful. But in Naples, half of your Italian experience will be visiting places on your checklist, and the other half will consist of what you see while you're getting there.

This means: allow more time in the schedule between activities so that you can people-watch or follow your nose down that narrow winding street with atmosphere. (See photo: people-watching in Piazza del Plebiscito). If a native wants to practice their English, make time for them. But keep your wits about you, and don't make your bag or purse vulnerable to the famous moped purse-snatchers. If you're female, you may not have been whistled at elsewhere in Italy, but expect it here, and try to take it as a compliment. 

A Worthwhile Checklist

With a 2800 year history and 448 churches, you can decide how much time you want to spend in the art & architecture category:

• The archaeological museum is a must, especially if Pompeii is on your itinerary. There's also a Secret Museum, a collection of erotic Roman art. Contact the museum or ask at your hotel if you're interested in visiting the Secret Museum, because it's not always open.  

• The Capodimonti museum, full of masterpieces, also has a gorgeous picnic-worthy park outside with stunning views. 
• Check the museums of Naples website for addresses, entrance fees, and opening times. 
• Take a walk through the Galleria Umberto I. It reminds me of Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, but these two covered galleries were not actually done by the same architect.
• Visit the Church of San Severo to see the incredible veiled Christ sculpture.
• Walk around in the gorgeous cloister garden of Santa Chiara  (see photo, below)

• Don't miss the Church of Gesù Nuovo with its funky façade
• Visit the Royal Palace in Piazza del Plebiscito (closed Wednesdays, 4€ admission)

Walking and Wandering

• Walk down the pedestrian street Via Toledo, all the way down to Piazza Plebiscito.
• From Piazza del Plebiscito, amble down to the water and enjoy the lungo mare or boardwalk. 
• Explore the narrow winding streets of Spaccanapoli (translation "split Napoli"), which cuts through the historic center of the city.

Food

• In Piazza del Plebiscito, have a drink at the historic Cafe Gambrinus.
• Or try the famous nocciolato coffee at Il Professore.
• Eat pizza at L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, and expect a line. (If you've read Elizabeth Gilbert's book Eat, Pray, Love: this is where she ate). But unlike every other restaurant in Italy, this one practically never closes: it's open 10 am to 11 pm every day. For more suggestions on which pizzeria to visit in Naples, check out the Pizza Napoletana Facebook Group.
• Try vermicelli with shellfish, and buffalo mozzarella, which will melt in your mouth. If you pass an outdoor market during the day, note the fruits and vegetables that are abundant. Those are the ones in season and the ones to order.

Castles and Views

• Take the funicular up to Vornero for views, and to visit Castle Saint Elmo
• From the center of town, walk up to visit one of the symbols of Naples, the Castel Nuovo, which also houses the Civic Museum.
• Visit the seaside Castel dell'Ovo, a manageable walk from Piazza del Plebiscito. Click here to read about the castle's connection to an actual egg. Photo of Castel Dell'Ovo below by Verde Luigi.
  

  

Shopping

• Head to Via Calabritto for high-end designer names.
• For shoe shopping, I love the markets, of which there are many. Or head to Piazza dei Martiri, and then go up the tiny Vicoletto della Cavallerizza for a great selection of shoe shops.
• Or go to Via San Gregorio Armeno and Via San Biagio dei Librai for stores filled with nativity scenes and religous figures. Check out the amazing Doll Hospital, Ospedale delle Bombole. 
• To visit a vibrant Italian market, head to Poggioreale on Sunday morning. Be careful, and arrive by taxi (expect to pay 7€ from the center of town), not public transport.

A Couple Other Worthwhile Things To Do

 

• Take the tour of underground Naples,  Napoli Sotterranea.
• If you like opera, check the schedule of the Teatro San Carlo, the best opera house in southern Italy

A Note on the Language

If you're studying Italian, you'll notice something about Naples: the accent is very different because you're in the south. If you want to practice your passato remoto, this is a good place to do it: it's used much more here than it is in the north of Italy, and the verb "prendere" is substituted for the verb "pigliare" much of the time.

Fabulous Day Trips from Naples

• Take a boat to the lovely islands of Ischia, Procida, or Capri.
• Climb the local volcano, Vesuvius.  
• Visit the archaeological ruins in Pompeii or Herculaneum.
• Take a ferry to the Aeolian Islands of Sicily and climb the volcano Stromboli  
• Head to the Amalfi coast and visit Sorrento, Amalfi, Ravello, Vietri or Positano (but you can't do all that in one day).
• Visit the Royal Palace in Caserta

All photos except Castel dell'Ovo taken by Sanjay

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Ischia

The island of Capri, off Naples, is pretty well-known. But less well-known to foreign tourists is the island of Ischia, less than an hour by boat from Naples, and equally worthwhile.

Go to Ischia in the summer for sandy beaches. Or visit in the cooler months or in the evening, and swim at one of the warm beaches fed by Ischia's abundant natural hot springs.

 

Go to Ischia anytime for good food: fish, of course, but also try the local dish coniglio all'ischitana, made with rabbits bred in a ditch (yes, really), and don't forget to sample the local wine and honey as well.

Ischia is small enough to easily explore in a few days, but big enough that you can't do it on foot. Traffic can be heavy, the roads are narrow and winding, and parking can be a challenge, so we rented a couple scooters to get around, which ended up being a great solution after we figured out how to operate them (though the guy renting them to us had no qualms about handing over the keys with very little instruction).

Like most places in Italy, Ischia has a rich history which dates back to the Greeks in the 7th century B.C. When you're done at the beach, or to learn about Ischia's long history, visit:

• the Archaeological museum, which among other artifacts houses the famous Nestor's Cup from Homer's Illiad;
• the Sea Museum to see old nautical instruments, fishing equipment, and models of boats; 
• the Farmer's Museum to see original farming equipment;
• the whitewashed Church of the Soccorso for the spectacular views;
• the Sanctuary of Santa Restituita built 1000 years ago;
• the Castello Aragonese, accessible by crossing a short bridge from Ischia Porto, which was built to protect the island from pirates. The castle inspired 16th century author Ludovico Ariosto to write the famous poem Orlando Furioso which is included in the Italian classico high school curriculum to this day.

I guess my only word of caution when planning a visit to Ischia is regarding the hotels: there are some nice ones, and some nice spas. But Ischia saw its boom in the 1960s, and many of the hotels seem to have been built around that time and not updated much. So do your research, or get a personal recommendation before booking.

Photo by Sanjay

Pompeii

The question that's been bothering me as I've been writing and researching this post is:

Would I take my kids, ages 1 and 3, to visit Pompeii?

The answer, I've decided, is no. Not yet, anyway. I think seeing the agony of a person at the precise moment they were being buried alive by boiling lava (see photo below) would be too hard on little kids (and I can just picture the questions: "Mummy, am I going to suddenly get buried alive by lava while I'm walking to school?").

 

So for anyone old enough to handle it, Pompeii is one of the most incredible sites I've ever seen and is well worth a visit, as 2.5 million visitors a year can attest.

Once a thriving and cosmopolitan city of the Roman Empire, Pompeii and its inhabitants were frozen in time when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD and buried the city under layers of lava. Excavations began in about 1748 and since then a lot of the city has been uncovered, allowing the visitor to walk the streets and get a good idea of what life must have been like for people living in Pompeii under the Roman Empire.

Chicago's Field Museum had an amazing exhibit on Pompeii a couple years ago, and did a great write-up describing the day of the eruption in detail and the experience for the tens of thousands of inhabitants who tried to flee.

The photo below shows a city gate and one of the many completely excavated streets, with the infamous Mount Vesuvius looming in the background.

 

Some of my favorite parts of Pompeii:

• retail stores of local merchants
• peoples' private homes
• public baths
• toilets
• brothels (to see the erotic images from the brothels, visit the Naples Archaeological Museum and make a reservation for the Secret Room Exhibit)
• art: frescoes (see photo, above), mosaics, sculpture
• an open-air amphitheatre (see photo, below)

  

Logistics

Pompeii is easy to get to from Naples by bus, train or car.

• bus: take the SITA bus that runs from Naples to Salerno and get off in Pompei at the Piazza Esedra
• train: take the Circumvesuviana that runs between Naples and Sorrento and get off at the Pompei Scavi stop
• car: take the A3 autostrada and exit Pompei

The site is basically open every day, all day. Advance tickets are not necessary, but allow at bare minimum a half day, though I recommend spending a full day, and hiring a guide or going on a tour. There's also a 3-day ticket which includes the excavated towns of Herculaneum, Oplontis, Stabiae and Boscoreale.

Note

Due to a severe state of disrepair, the Italian government has declared Pompeii to be in a state of emergency.

Photos by Sanjay