Italy Beyond the Obvious

Ode to Ronchi (via San Maurilio 7, Milan)

 

I've been de-cluttering for the last few months to get ready to move to San Francisco. SF will be the eleventh city I've lived in and the fifth my husband and I have lived in together, so I've been-there-done-that and going through Stuff is still not fun. But for this move, I'm going to finally say goodbye to an empty wine bottle that I've carried from Milan to Boston to Chicago. It's time.

I wanted to memorialize it with a post about the restaurant it came from, Ronchi, so I decided to call this post "Ode to Ronchi". Then I looked up the precise definition of ode, and tried to write one. The result is not exactly, precisely, an ode (that would be ABABCDECDE), but I think it gets the message across. 

Ode To Ronchi (Via San Maurilio 7, Milano)

Down a narrow street of cobblestone

near Milano's famous church,

below the rooms we called our own,

the locals came to perch.

 

Ronchi's live music wafted up, loud and fun till late.

We went in only a couple times: with friends and on a date.

But we saw them daily, and they'd smile,

always with a friendly "ciao ciao!"

And my Ronchi bottle's traveled miles,

That is until, well, now.

 

Ronchi's still there, so if you're in Milan,

definitely drop by.

Stay for music, wine and cheese;

(I hear they now have wi-fi!)

And one more thing, if you don't mind: please say hi from me;

thanks for the bottle, thanks for the music,

and thanks for the memories.

What about you? Do you have your own "Ronchi" somewhere in Italy?

 

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5 Reasons to visit the town of Vigevano

Even after 5 years in Italy - and more than half of that in Milan - I had never heard of Vigevano until a Milanese friend asked if I wanted to swing by her boyfriend's house - in a beautiful nearby town, she promised. Because he'd been out with us in Milan so often, I'd assumed her significant other was from a Milanese suburb like Milano Due (Milan Two) or Milano Tre (Milan Three). Instead, that day I was introduced to a stunning architectural jewel of a town. 

 
 

Here are 5 reasons you, too, should consider a visit to Vigevano:

1) Off the beaten track

If you enjoy discovering Italian towns with lots of atmosphere, lots of Italians, and few tourists, this is one. In fact its main square (see point 3, below) is often referred to as one of the most beautiful and least known squares from the Italian Renaissance.

2) Day trip from Milan 
At only 35 km away, Vigevano makes a great day trip from Milan. Hop on the train and you're there in 30 minutes. Spend most of a day, and you're back in Milan for dinner.

 

3) Beautiful architecture

The main square, called Piazza Ducale (the rectangle in the aerial photo), and the tower by Bramante are architectural gems built during the Renaissance. Leonardo Da Vinci was a guest at Vigevano and worked with Bramante, leaving his mark on the town as well. Vigevano's castle, the Castello Sforzesco (also in photo above), is one of Europe's largest. If the name of the castle rings a bell, note that Milan's castle is also called the Sforzesco castle - built (or more accurately, rebuilt) by the same family, the Sforzas.

 

4) Shoes

I admit I have a weakness for shoes in Italy. I often arrive with just the ones on my feet, and leave with quite a few pairs. Vigevano is a major center of shoe production in Italy, and the shoe industry overtook the town after World War II, causing its population to 'explode' from 17,000 in 1861 to over 65,000 today, and resulting in not-so-positive articles about Vigevano's capitalist "shoe fetish", like this one (in Italian). For anyone with an interest in the history of shoe construction, functionality, and design, visit the town's shoe museum, which also displays shoes worn by famous historical Italians such as Beatrice D'Este, and has a section on historical shoe styles worldwide.

5) Risotto, anyone?

Italy is Europe's top producer of rice, and much of it comes from the area around Vigevano. If you're reading this before September 17th, 2010, consider going during the 3-day rice festival, which includes street food, tastings, and a lot to offer for professionals in the field (no pun intended).

Vigevano square photo by Chris Thomas; shoes photo by Jeff Safi; aerial photo from www.pavia.lombardiainrete.it

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Short Trips from Milan

When I worked in Milan I took advantage of weekends to travel. Below I've made a list of my favorite places to visit from Milan in 1, 2, 3 or 4 days. I've put cities in a list based on the minimum amount of time I recommend spending there. Unless otherwise specified, all travel times are by train.

 

If you have just 1 day...

• Visit the Carthusian Monastery of Pavia, only 20 minutes away.
• The town and beautiful park of Monza are just 10 minutes away.
• The ancient town of Bergamo is under an hour away.
• The Roman town of Como, on the lake with the same name, is just an hour away.
• The Lake Maggiore is also one hour away. Take the train to the beautiful town of Stresa and go from there.
• Go to Switzerland! In 1 hour you are in the pretty lakeside town of Lugano.
• Gawk at the the picturesque alpine scenery of the Aosta Valley.
• In just over an hour, you're in the atmospheric university city of Bologna.
• Visit the gastronomically and architecturally significant Parma, less than 90 minutes away. Arrive hungry.
• At 90 minutes away, Turin is somewhat of a long day trip but one of my favorite people lives there so I've done it many times.
• The port city of Genoa is also about 90 minutes away. It's a long day trip but if that's all you have, then go, and at the end of the day you'll be promising to return as soon as you can.

 

If you have 2 days, consider any of the above, and in addition....

• The spa town of Sirmione, on Lake Garda is a couple hours away. 
• Visit the town or see an outdoor opera in the small city of Verona, under 2 hours away.
• Get a little off the beaten track in the town of Vicenza about 2 hours away - and don't miss Palladio's Villa Rotonda.
• Go to Florence, just under 2 hours away.
• Enjoy art, architecture and food in the gorgeous city of Padua, just over 2 hours away.
• Spend time in Venice, about 2.5 hours away. Two days in Venice is a little rushed but if that's all you have, then go.
• Hike the Cinque Terre, which is about 3 hours away by train.
• Sure why not - go to Pisa and climb the leaning tower.

 

If you have 3 days, consider any of the above, and in addition...

• From Florence, visit the towns of Lucca, Siena, San Gimignano - or if you have a car, Monteriggioni or Volterra.
• Spend a couple days on the island of Elba. Allow about 4 hours for the train plus 1 hour for the ferry. (Though this trip is easier by car when starting from Milan.)
• See the spectacular Byzantine mosaics in the city of Ravenna, and while you're in the area, stop in and visit the town of Brisighella. 
• In 4 hours you're in the gorgeous Umbrian city of Perugia. From there visit Assisi as well.

 

If you have 4 days, consider any of the above, and in addition...

• Venture further into Tuscany, visiting the towns of Pienza and Montepulciano.
• Go to Rome.
• Explore more of Umbria from your base in Perugia. Visit the towns of Gubbio, Spoleto, Todi, and Orvieto.
• Explore more of the Veneto, going up to Bassano del Grappa, Asolo, and the countryside - red and Prosecco wineries! - north of Verona.
• Go skiing at Cortina D'Ampezzo in the Dolomites. Or if it's summertime, go hiking near Ortisei in the Val Gardena.

I don't recommend going south of Rome if you have only 4 days total, nor do I recommend trying to go to Sardinia or Sicily. You just need more time that that (even though, I know, Italy does look misleadingly small on the map!)

Photos from top to bottom: Parma, Sirmione, Lucca, the Dolomites near Ortisei. All photos by Sanjay

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Where to run, bike, or roller blade in Milan

Business travelers ask me all the time where they can run in Milan. I'm not a runner (though I wish I were - it's so convenient for travel!) but I do pack my roller blades in my suitcase sometimes. 

 

For short distances, the Parco Sempione (marked on the map below) in Milan's historic center is probably just fine. Runners can certainly also just jog through the city center, though don't plan on seeing any Italians doing the same. And please be careful of the traffic, or try to stay mainly on pedestrian streets. I've seen many a tourist jog through Piazza Duomo (usually marked by fluorescent white running shoes), but there's a better and much bigger park just 20 minutes away.

 

The Parco Nord has a series of paved paths, perfect for running, roller blading, or going for a somewhat leisurely cycle. Take a taxi or, on public transportation, ride the yellow subway line to Zara and then get the tram up Viale Fulvio Testi. You'll also be surrounded by people playing soccer, frisbee, or just lying in the sun. Especially on weekends, it will be busy enough that you'll be safe going alone. Just don't go after dark, and if you don't have a good sense of direction, get a map before you go.

View Running in Milan in a larger map

Photo of cycling path by Conanil

 

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The best outlet malls in Italy

 

It's January, and the sales have started across Italy. If you're okay with crowds, the January and July sale periods in Italy are a fantastic time to shop. (Last time I went during the January sales I actually witnessed a fist fight in the parking lot over a parking space - which was interesting, considering that cars were parked wherever they would fit, including on medians, on the sidewalk and in a line in the middle of the road.)

There are hundreds of outlet stores around Italy, but here are 6 outlet malls in particular that I would recommend if you want to shop. Note that these "malls" are not indoors, so dress accordingly (since sales are in the coldest and hottest times of the year).

Near Milan

• Serravalle Designer Outlet has 180 stores and a huge parking lot (site of aforementioned skirmish). Open most days from 10 am to 8 pm, but hours are sometimes limited on Mondays so check opening times on the website. Drive to this mall, or go with a bus tour.

• FoxTown outlet is near Milan but it's actually in Switzerland. It has about 100 stores and is open daily from 11 am to 7 pm. Get there by car or take a bus tour from Milan or Bergamo. Tip: if you're undecided on whether to go to Serravalle or FoxTown from Milan, remember that you'll be spending Swiss Francs in Switzerland so checking the exchange rate may help with your decision.

 Near Florence

• The Mall is 30 minutes outside of Florence (and pretty close to Lucca) and smaller than other outlets, with about 20 stores.

• If you're a fan of Prada or Miu Miu, visit the Space outlet in Montevarchi (drive, or take a train + taxi). They only let 100 people in at a time, so take a number, order a cappuccino at the bar next door, and wait until your number is called. Open daily from 9.30 am, but call ahead to check opening hours. Address: Località Levanella, 52025 Montevarchi (AR). Phone: +39 055 91 901. Tip: if you don't like crowds, avoid Saturdays.

• The same company that runs Serravalle near Milan also has a big outlet mall near Florence called Barberino, with almost 100 stores. For info on how to get there by car or by shuttle from Florence, opening times, stores, and a map, check the website.

Near Rome

• Castel Romano is owned by the same company that owns Serravalle near Milan and Barberino near Florence. It's got 110 stores, is open 7 days a week from 10 am to 8 or 9 pm, and is about 30 minutes outside Rome.

Near Venice

• Noventa di Piave is about 30 minutes from Venice, and has about 50 stores. Open from 10 am to 8 pm seven days a week, it's accessible by car or by shuttle from the San Dona' di Piave bus station. For a map of the stores, address and phone numbers, download this pdf.

Photo by Sanjay

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The Best Hotels in Italy

Travel & Leisure Magazine recently published a list of Best Hotels in the World, based on a reader survey. I pulled the Italy ones from the bunch because it's an interesting list, and because the T&L website doesn't allow you to. Lists of Best Hotels in Italy abound if you do a Google search, but I do like this one (even if it doesn't include my favorite hotel in Italy - probably just as well). 

  

Best Hotels

1) Grand Hotel Baglioni, Bologna

2) Il San Pietro, Positano

3) Westin Palace, Milan

Best Resorts

1) Il San Pietro, Positano

2) Hotel Villa Sant'Andrea, Taormina

3) Grand Hotel Timeo, Taormina

4) Hotel Excelsior, Venice

5) Hotel Caruso Belvedere, Ravello

Best Small Hotels in a City

1) Grand Hotel Villa Cora, Florence

2) Hotel D'Inghilterra, Rome

3) J.K. Place, Florence

4) Boscolo Hotel Palace, Rome

Best Inns & Small Country Hotels

1) La Rosa dei Venti, Positano

2) La Posta Vecchia, Ladispoli (near Rome)

3) Villa Pisani, Vescovana (between Verona and Venice)

4) La Scalinatella, Capri

5) Grand Hotel A Villa Feltrinelli, Gargnano (on Lake Garda)

Top photo of La Posta Vecchia in Ladispoli; Second photo of Villa Sant'Andrea in Taormina; last photo of Villa Feltrinelli in Gargnano

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5 Reasons to visit the town of Monza

Only 10 minutes by train from Milan and on the way to Lake Como, Monza is a great escape from the big city and has a fantastic green space to boot. And it's completely walkable. Walk from the train station, through the historic center, to the park, and back to the train station. (Note: this circuit, with no stops, would be about 2 hours of walking). 

I've spent a lot of time in Monza. I lived there for a year in high school and went to the Liceo Classico Leone Dehon, and have been back many times since to visit friends. Here are the first places I visit whenever I go back:

• Monza's Romanesque-Gothic Duomo or main church has foundations dating to about 600. The museum inside houses the city's most famous treasure: the Iron Crown, allegedly made with one of the nails from the crucifixion.  

• Go for a stroll, a run, a bike ride or a picnic in Monza's huge park, which is twice the size of New York's Central Park. Sundays are perfect for people-watching, because the paths are full of Italian families going for a walk after church, looking their Sunday best.

• Admire the gardens and architecture of the Villa Reale (photo above), a summer palace built in the park in the 18th century by the Royal Hapsburg family of Austria. To visit the inside call (+39) 039 323 222 at least 10 days in advance. If you're there in June, (bring bug spray and expect crowds, but) the fireworks held around the first day of summer at the Villa Reale are some of the most spectacular I've ever seen.

• For a few days every September, Monza hosts the Formula One Italian Grand Prix where fast cars compete for first place at the Autodrome.

• Walk along the pedestrian streets in Monza's historic center to shop, window-shop, or people watch. It's worth the 2-block detour to walk over the pretty Bridge of Lions or Ponte dei Leoni, seen in the photo above with the church bell tower in the background. And don't miss the landmark Arengario (photo).

Photo of Villa Reale from www.istockphoto.com; Photo of bridge of lions by maxgiani

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Getting Lucky in Milan

There's lots to see in Milan for a tourist on the move, but one place you'll see people stop is in the middle of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Conveniently on the path from Piazza Duomo to Piazza della Scala, the covered Galleria is home to shops, restaurants, and four floor mosaics representing Milan, Florence, Rome and Turin. It's the bull, symbol of Turin, that gets most of the attention.

Spinning three times on your heel on the bull's balls (or rather in the deep depression where the balls used to be), allegedly brings luck. Or, depending on who you ask, it may help with fertility. You will notice one thing, however: though the guidebooks say this is a Milanese tradition, it is mostly tourists who spin on their heel. (None of my Milanesi friends stop and spin, but maybe it just needs to be done once and then you're good for life.)

Even if you're not in the market for luck, it's almost worth going for the people-watching alone: some people stop, watch, wait their turn, then spin. Some stand far away, giggle and point, then run up and take a quick photo. Others try to nonchalantly walk over it, doing a little quarter-spin as they pass and pretend to not even notice.

And this is one of the easiest tourist attractions to see in Milan: always open, protected from the elements, and free.

Oh, you thought this post was about that kind of getting lucky? In that case you may want to check out my post on local hotspots in Milan.

Photo by Sanjay

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The Best Museums in Italy

The Touring Club Italiano recently released its list of the 30 most visited museums in Italy of 2008. The top 30 museums saw a total of 23 million visitors in 2008, and the top 3 accounted for more than a third (8.2m) of those. 

Below is a summary of the 3 most visited museums in: all of Italy, Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, and finally, the 3 museums in Italy with the largest increase of visitors compared to 2007. All information is taken directly from the Touring Club document, but I included links to each museum.

The 3 Most Visited Museums in Italy

1. Vatican Museums (4.4m visitors)

2. Archaeological Site of Pompeii (2.3m visitors)

3. Uffizi Gallery/Vasari Corridor in Florence (1.6m visitors)

The 3 Most Visited Museums in Rome / Vatican City

1. Vatican Museums (4.4m visitors)

2. Museo Centrale del Risorgimento (810k visitors)

3. Bioparco (780k visitors)

The 3 Most Visited Museums in Florence

1.. Uffizi Gallery/Vasari Corridor (1.6m visitors)

2. Galleria dell'Accademia (1.2m visitors)

3. Opera di Santa Croce (837k visitors)

The 3 Most Visted Museums in Venice

1. Palazzo Ducale/Doge's Palace (1.4m visitors)

2. St. Mark's museum (510k visitors)

3. Galleria dell'Accademia (356k visitors)

The 3 Most Visited Museums in Milan

1. Museo Civico di Storia Naturale / Natural History Museum (350k visitors)

2. The Last Supper / Cenacolo Vinciano (335k visitors)

3. Da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology (329k visitors)

The 3 Museums in Italy with the Largest Increase in Visitors

1. Citta' della Scienza / City of Science (link in Italian) in Naples

2. Citta' dei Bambini e Ragazzi / City of Kids (link in Italian) in Genova

3. Museo Civico di Scienze Naturali / Natural Science Museum (link in Italian) in Bergamo

Photo of the Laocoon Group, in the Vatican Museums, by Joao Maximo

15 Local Hotspots in Milan Right Now

My friend Maria has lived in Milan for 10 years, and is one of those people who always knows the best places to hang out, eat, drink, and shop.  So: Maria's Top 15 Local Milan Hotspots, Right Now:

Local Hotspot #1: Gelato

At Chocolat, in the center of the city near the Cadorna train station, expect a queue outside by 10 pm most evenings between May and October. With a great atmosphere and delicious gelato of all flavors, Chocolat speciality is - what else - every imaginable flavor of chocolate gelato.

Local Hotspot #2: Hidden Garden

Have a drink in the lush garden of the luxury Bulgari Hotel, down a private street in the center of the shopping district. The garden is open to anyone who wants to sit down for a drink or a bite, and is an oasis of calm in the middle of a bustling city. Maria says they also make the best panini in town. 

Local Hotspot #3: Shoes

Visit Le Solferine in Via Solferino for an amazing selection and quality of Italian shoes. One of the owners is also a designer.

Local Hotspot #4: Drinks at Sunset

In the navigli or canals district of Milan, grab a stool, order a drink, and sit along the naviglio grande at Luca e Andrea's to enjoy the sunset. Even though the barstools cannot come outside until the end of May according to local laws (even if the weather is gorgeous), it's still worth a visit for aperitivi or dinner. It's a small place, so call ahead or arrive early.

Local Hotspot #5: Boutique Shopping

Corso Vercelli has a lot of local boutiques and great selection, and many more locals than tourists. You'll find clothing for men, women, and children, athletic gear and more.

Local Hotspot #6: Restaurant

When I asked Maria about restaurants in Milan, she was less enthusiastic than I'd expected. Finally she explained that the restaurants in Milan in her opinion, are overpriced for the quality of food they serve. Sure, there are great restaurants if you don't mind the prices, but personally, she said, she'd rather cook at home. But, wait: one that is worth going to, with quality food and not overpriced, is Ristorante Da Gaspare.

Local Hotspot #7: Cocktails and More

This hasn't changed in years: Corso Como 10 is a chic and reliably fun place to sip a cocktail or have dinner with friends, or people-watch. If it's a nice night, sit outside in the garden. For the "and more", click on the link above to explore their artsy website.

Local Hotspot #8: Best Pizza

Maria says: Go to Rosso Pomodoro.

Local Hotspot #9: Aperitivo with Kids

The Italian tradition of the 6 o'clock aperitivo-with-free-food is fantastic, but can you bring the kids? Not usually. But while Rita's, near the naviglio grande, is a hotspot for many even without kids, the kids are welcome. Go for the aperitivo hour, Sunday brunch, or dinner. Definitely make a reservation. Via Angelo Fumagalli 1, tel. 02 837 2865.

Local Hotspot #10: Best Cannoli

Maria is originally from Sicily, home of the cannolo. So she was very excited when Palermo's famous Antica Focacceria San Francesco opened up recently inside the Princi bakery at Via Ponte Vetero 10. A true Sicilian bakery, the Antica Focacceria makes - among other things - a fantastic cannolo and a panino con la milza, a sort of beef sandwich. 

The Princi bakery (click here for a list of Princi in Milan) is a hotspot in itself, with amazing focaccia. Princi also prides itself on being open "all the time" (which should not be taken literally, but if you're coming home from the discoteca at 5 am, it's well worth swinging by to check).

Local Hotspot #11: Department Store

If you thought that the high-end department store La Rinacente in Piazza Duomo was somewhat expensive or touristy, head to the Coin store in Piazza Cinque Giornate. It's been renovated and has a huge selection of reasonably priced quality merchandise.

Local Hotspot #12: Authentic Italian Panino

For an authentic and fresh Italian panino, visit one of Milan's six Panino Giusto locations. It's a chain, but so what. Yum.

Local Hotspot #13: Romantic Cocktail

Enjoy a cocktail at Cafè Savona: this romantic locale also has a few TVs on the wall for sports fans. Go for lunch, the aperitivo hour, or a late-evening drink.

Local Hotspot #14: New Boutique in the Quadrilatero D'Oro

You'll recognize many of the top designer names on the streets of Milan's shopping district, the Quadrilatero D'Oro. But a relative newcomer on the block has made a splash with the locals: visit the Zap store in Via Solferino for unique and trendy women's and men's fashions.

Local Hotspot #15: Trendy Eatery

Set up sushi bar style, the Obika mozzarella bar is an international chain founded by a Neapolitan that has become a hit with the Milanese. If you like mozzarella di bufala, this is your place. Here's a photo of a menu item at Obika:

More on Milan:

Top Things to See in Milan

Great day trips from Milan

Photo of cocktail by thebittenword.com

Photo of naviglio by Nettaphoto

Photo of Sicilian cannoli by Volavale

Photo of lunch at Obika by matthew.hickey

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