Italy Beyond the Obvious

The island of Ponza

 

"We want to visit the Amalfi Coast for many reasons, including spending a few days on a white sandy beach - preferably somewhere with whitewashed houses that cascade down to a fishing village", clients requested recently. There are some pretty beaches on the Amalfi Coast and nearby, but it wouldn't be my first recommendation for what they described. Instead I suggested: definitely visit the Amalfi Coast. But for the beaches, go spend a couple days on the island of Ponza. (And they did.)

Getting There

From Rome, take the train to Anzio or Formia, which are just over an hour ride away (to the south, ie in the direction of Naples) as long as you don't get the slow train. Then take the 1-hour hydrofoil (www.vetor.it) or the 2-3 hour boat (www.caremar.it). Boats also leave directly from Naples in July and August.

Getting Around

Even though it's where the boats come in, staying near the harbor is convenient because you can do a lot on foot. Don't rent a car, or you'll spend your time stuck in traffic. If you're a very confident scooter or motorbike driver, the perfect way to get around the island is by motorbike/vespa/scooter, but I highly recommend not trying to learn to drive one on Ponza. You can also take taxis, water taxis, or the bus - which is somewhat old and dilapidated, but will get you around the island.

Beach-hopping

Many of Ponza's beaches are reached only by water taxi, so grab one in the harbor and either set a time to have them pick you up, or call when you're ready.  Beaches worth visiting include (click on words to see images) Frontone, Cala Felice, Lucia Rosa grotto, Tirreno beach, Cala Feola beach (on the other end of island), the natural pools, Piana bianca. If you've got more than about 2 days, consider a day trip to the nearby island of Palmarola (pictured in the misty photo with Ponza at the top of this post). 

Food

Other than beach-hopping and participating in the Italian dolce far niente on Ponza, I'd recommend a meal at Il Tramonto ("sunset"), which has the best views on the island. 

Photo of Ponza and Palmarola islands by Nicola Since 1972, photo of Ponza by Seba Sofariu, sunset photo by Marite 2007, aerial photo by Hengist Decius

 

 

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A fantastic easy bike ride near Venice

 

I'd love to hop on a bike, circle St. Mark's Square, ride over the Rialto Bridge past the markets, cycle through the city's narrow calle and bump down its many short staircases. But if you've been to Venice, you already know that unless you're getting a ride from Mary Poppins or E.T., the center of Venice isn't going to work on a bike.

However there is a fantastic easy bike ride I recommend. Look at the map of Venice (below) and find the main fish-shaped set of islands you recognize, then look a little south. You'll see two very long and skinny islands: the Lido and the island of Pellestrina. Both islands have paved routes and are completely flat, making them ideal for an easy cycle with amazing views of both the sea and of Venice. Bring lots of water and a swim suit and towel if it's warm, because you'll cycle by many sandy beaches. But start from the town of Chioggia, at the bottom of the map below.

Rent bikes in Chioggia at Top Bike Di Fontolan Sebastiano, via Cristoforo Colombo 162, Chioggia, VE 30015, tel.: 39 0415544447. A mile or so down the road you'll hit the ferry terminal for boats to Pellestrina, which is about a 30 minute ride. Tip: get there 30 minutes or so before the ferry leaves, because the ferry driver decides how many bikes to allow on board. You want to be near the front of the line or you may be told to get the next ferry.

 

Cycle heading north up the length of Pellestrina, which is just 5 miles (about 8 km) long. Stay to the right, and when you reach the end of the island take the 10-minute ferry across to Lido island, which is longer than Pellestrina but not by much. Tip: When you get off the ferry at Lido, stay to the left, and cycle along Via Alberoni. When you pass the Istituto Carlo Steeb, take the tiny road on your right that crosses the island. You'll see a set of steps that lead up to the Lido walls where you can cycle (photo below). Continue to the end of the Lido island along the island's east side and for the return consider cycling back down the west side of the island, through the various fishing villages.

 

Timing: If you do both Lido and Pellestrina, it's 15 miles (24 km) one-way. So in addition to 40 minutes of ferry rides, expect about 90 minutes of very easy cycling to get from one end to the other. Then do the whole thing in reverse. So factor in a total of about 80 minutes on the ferry and 3 hours of cycling, plus leeway, and time for lunch or a swim.

Alternatively, if you can't get to Chioggia, you can get to Lido easily from Venice and rent bikes there.

 

Photo of cyclist on Pellestrina by Bicinvacanza, used with permission. Other photos from passioneventi.it

 

 

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Five spectacular hikes on the island of Capri

Capri is a walker's paradise, full of incredible views and scenery, so here are five walks to experience it firsthand. Wear proper shoes, long socks or long pants so your legs don't get scratched, and don't forget a hat, sunscreen, water, and - in June through August - bug repellent.

 

 

1. The famous Via Krupp (photo above), considered to be one of the prettiest roads in the world, reopened in June 2008 after a 30 year restoration. To get there, start at the Piazzetta Umberto I in Capri, and follow Via Vittorio Emanuele to Via Matteoti, which then hits Via Krupp. Before heading down the path, consider visiting the beautiful Gardens of Augustus or the Carthusian Monastery, both right at the top of the trail. At the bottom, you'll be at Marina Piccola (small marina), where you can have a drink or go for a swim.

 

2. From the Piazzetta in the town of Capri head down Via Vittorio Emanuele to Via Camerelle, then follow Via Tragara towards the Arco Naturale (Natural Arch, photo above). Follow the signs, stopping at Le Grotelle restaurant for a drink or lunch, and then head down a steep hill to the gorgeous Cave of Matermania. From there, the path takes you down to the Punta Tragara, with incredible views of the famous Faraglioni rocks. This trail has lots of steps, both up and down, but the end part from Punta Tragara back to the town of Capri is an easy wander.

 

3. Hike to the top of Monte Solaro, Capri's highest point (photo above). Allow about 1 - 1.5 hours for the hike, or take the chairlift, which is just a 12 minute ride and which you can take up or down. There are a few trails up, but the easiest is from the main square in Anacapri: head towards the Villa San Michele, but before reaching the villa, take a narrow road to your right signposted "Monte Solaro", and follow it to the top (which is visible the entire time anyway). Once up there, don't rush down: you'll have a 360 degree view of the island, so buy a drink or lunch at the top and enjoy.

 

4. There is a relatively new walking path along the coast between the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra, photo below) to the Lighthouse, called the Path of the Little Forts, or The Old Walk of the Forts (photo above). Both ends of this 6 km trail can be reached by bus, but the path is easier if you start at the lighthouse and walk to the Blue Grotto rather than the reverse. If you can, time it to watch the sunset. Allow about 3 hours for the hike and note that while tour boats are going in and out of the Grotto you can not swim - but wait until 5 pm and you'll likely be allowed in the water. Here's a good detailed description of this walk.

 

5. It's a somewhat strenuous 45-minute walk, but worth it: head to the Roman ruins of Villa Jovis from the town of Capri. You'll see incredible views and can visit the archaeological ruin, which was built 2,000 years ago by the Emperor Tiberius. 

More details on the hikes: If you prefer to hike any of these with a guide, I highly recommend Giovanni Visetti. Use the detailed route instructions and elevation maps on his website, or hire him as a private guide. Or, buy the Sunflower Guide, which has excellent instructions and maps of hikes on Capri and all over the Amalfi Coast.

The challenge with Capri is that it can be difficult to get away from the tourists. Walking is a great way to do it (and so is spending time in the town of Anacapri). But if the island in high season isn't your thing, consider visiting the nearby island of Ponza instead. Or, if it's off season and you're not sure about the weather, spend time on Ischia, which has lots of natural hot springs and spas.

Photo of Via Krupp from www.istockphoto.com Photos of natural arch and of view from Monte Solaro by dr_tr; Photo of Sentiero dei Fortini by Fiore S. Barbato; Photo of the Blue Grotto by A Journey Round my Skull 

 

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What to see in Sicily

In August I did a podcast with the Amateur Traveler about what to see on the Italian island of Sicily. Here's the summary of our discussion.

Sicily could be described as: Italy, compact and concentrate. The tourist infrastructure is not as developed as in the rest of Italy and it's not as expensive. You'll definitely meet the locals and find it easier to have a true Sicilian experience. Then again, transportation and tourist attractions are not as reliable or robust. Sicily can be unpredictable and raw, but it's authentic, exciting, and gorgeous. I'd recommend it to anyone, and in fact I chose it as my own honeymoon destination.

 

An Extremely Brief History

Sicily has been inhabited for thousands of years: by the Greeks, Romans, Saracens from Northern Africa, Normans, Spanish, and of course is now Italian. The beauty of this history is that the culture has been influenced by each of these groups, which makes it quite different from the rest of Italy. 

A Sicily itinerary

The podcast starts in the city of Messina, and we move around the island clockwise. Messina is a logical starting point for anyone arriving from the Italian peninsula, but of course you could start anywhere. The route below would take about 2 weeks, done at a reasonable pace, but the island is small enough that you could just hit the highlights to make it shorter. The cities I covered in the podcast are marked in blue on the map at the end of this post, and I've included a couple other places, marked in purple, that we didn't discuss but I recommend!

 

Taormina

A gorgeous town overlooking the water, Taormina is famous for its part-Greek part-Roman theatre (the top photo of this post), incredible views over the sea, and is home to a few of Italy's best hotels. I've written about Taormina before, so we'll move on.

Siracuse

From Taormina, head south to Siracuse and visit its 3,000 year old Greek amphitheatre. Siracuse was once a significant city of the Roman Empire, right up there with Constantinople. One of my favorite memories of Siracuse is the lovely Sicilian salad we ate sitting by the water while we sat and soaked up the atmosphere. The island of Ortigia, connected to the city, is also worth a visit.

Spanish-Byzantine area

The towns of Ragusa, Ragusa Ibla, Modica, and Noto in the island's southeast corner are part of an area that was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693 and completely rebuilt in a Spanish Byzantine architectural style. The island of Sicily has two Michelin-starred restaurants, and they're both in this area! It has more recently attracted quite a few tourists, and I've heard it referred to as the new Tuscany. 

Agrigento

Continue westward along the island's southern coast to Agrigento, stopping at some incredible beaches if you can. In Agrigento, spend a day exploring the archaeological park of 2,500 year old Greek temples (photo above), which I've written about before. It's also worth visiting the archaeological museum which in addition to other artifacts, houses an impressive collection of Roman mosaics.

 

 

Piazza Armerina

If you have any interest in mosaics, Sicily is a great place to be, because it has mosaics of different styles and subject matters. In addition to the Roman mosaics in Agrigento, Palermo's Duomo and Capella Palatina and the nearby Duomo of Monreale are covered in jaw-dropping gold religious-themed mosaics. But my favorites are the mosaics in the Villa del Casale in Piazza Armerina which have nothing to do with saints or angels but instead depict African animals and unusual subjects as seen in the photo above. 

Erice

From Agrigento keep heading west, stopping to walk through the Greek ruins at Selinunte - also pretty when viewed from the beach below. Farther up the western coast, drive up the steep road full of switchbacks up to the pretty town of Erice and - according to the guidebooks - enjoy the fabulous views over the sea and countryside. I wish I could vouch for this one, but when we went, the entire town was in a cloud. So while the atmosphere was magical, we saw nothing! 

 

 
  

Palermo

 

 

 

I've written about Palermo before. A beautiful and chaotic city, Palermo has a lot to do, and many hidden gems for the somewhat adventurous tourist. In some places the city feels raw, but overall I'd describe it as an assault on the senses - and I don't mean that in a bad way. Its chaotic, vibrant atmosphere reminds me more of India than of Italy sometimes. 

   

 

One of my favorite moments in Palermo was when, exploring the market, one of the locals told us that the freshest fish could be found right next to the boats. We found a hole-in-the-wall restaurant with only a few tables, run by an older woman. She chose the freshest fish off the boats and that's what was served. There were no menus and no listed prices. I still remember the squid that we ate but most of all, talking with her really brought the place to life for us.

 

  

 

 

 My Favorite Part of Sicily

Climbing the live volcano on the island of Stromboli (photo above) is one of the best things I've done in Italy. I realize it's not for everyone: it's a strenuous hike, done in the middle of the night (summiting at midnight) and Stromboli is one of the Aeolian islands, which are partway to Naples. But the activity is spectacular. It starts with the approach by boat, when you see a perfect cone-shaped island emerging from the sea. Then, climbing in the dusk and then the dark, you'll see the volcano spit fire against the night sky. We stayed on the relatively nearby island of Lipari for a few days, where I have great memories of beaches, markets, and still use the pottery I got there frequently.

 

Biggest Surprise

By the time I visited Sicily, I'd traveled around Italy very extensively, so the thing that really stuck out for me was the African influence, which is small but significant. Some examples of this influence include food items such as couscous, cinnamon, and raisins; or the African animal-themed mosaics in Piazza Armerina, or the large elephant statue in Catania's main square (photo below), meant to protect the people from the volcano which looms over the city, Mount Etna.

 

 

 

Getting Around the Island

Trains work well around the periphery of the island, but for inland destinations, buses work just as well - and in some cases will be your only option. Transportation is not as reliable as you may be used to in the rest of Italy, so requires more planning and more leeway. Or, if you're used to driving in Italy, rent a car, with a recommendation: don't drive in Palermo or Catania unless you are comfortable driving in complete rules-out-the-window chaos.  

The Language

Sicilians speak Sicilian dialect in addition to Dante's Italian - the official Italian taught abroad and spoken on TV and on the radio. I don't understand a word of Siclian dialect (or any other Italian dialect for that matter) but we were fine with standard Italian. I can't comment on how well Sicilians speak English, though anecdotally I know many who do.

Three Words

Chris, the host of the Amateur Traveler, always asks his guests to summarize the place they've discussed in 3 words. Mine were: vibrant, gorgeous, and authentic. 

View What to see in Sicily in a larger map

Photo of Catania elephant from www.istockphoto.com; all other photos by Sanjay

 

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Cycling in Sardinia

Let's get this out of the way, since I know there is one thing travelers want to know when planning to cycle on vacation. It's the same thing I got asked every single morning before breakfast when I guided bike tours in Italy:  what about the hills?  The answer is, Sardinia is hilly. Very hilly.

If that's okay, read on. Because Sardinia Tourism has put together a fabulous and free cycling guide to the island, which I recently received in print but is also available online. The guide includes detailed route instructions for five multi-day cycling itineraries around the island, a total of 24 days or stages. 

In addition to maps and information about each day's distance and difficulty, the guide highlights major attractions along the route and includes photos that will make you want to book a plane ticket, like the one above of the rock formation (the small island with the unique shape) Pan di Zucchero, off the island's southwest coast and included in Day 4 of the southern itinerary.  The routes are also impressively oriented so that the cyclist is not riding into the Mistral wind, which blows from the northwest.

One Issue, And a Possible Workaround

As you can see from the table I created below, the itineraries were not put together according to a level of difficulty. Every itinerary has at least 2 days marked as "demanding", which is defined as having up to 1700 m of elevation gain per 100 km. And three of the five routes have at least one day categorized as "hard", which means mountainous, or more than 1700 m of elevation gain per 100 km. 

 

 

 

 

 

But the route instructions are written in so much detail that it would be simple to pick out the "easy" or "medium" days, and just cycle a day here and there according to personal endurance levels. It would also be easy to break up one day into two, if let's say 121 km of mountainous terrain (Day 5 of the Northeast Route) is too much.

Personally I would break up the days only because they are long days. Sardinia has some of the best beaches in the world, and I wouldn't want to cycle by them without a sample.

 

Photo of Pan di Zucchero by giselanto

Sicily Podcast

Listen to my 30-minute podcast about Sicily. I was interviewed by Chris Christensen of The Amateur Traveler. Download it (25 MB) here or stream it below:

 

 

Photo of me in Taormina by Sanjay

The Island of Capraia

Formed by a volcanic eruption 9 million years ago, which produced the island's gorgeous red rock (see photo below), Capraia is referred to as the "wild island". It's a 2.5 hour boat ride from the mainland port in Livorno, and with only a couple ferries a day it's a little harder to get to than the other islands of the Tuscan Archipelago, but it's worth it.

A Short Summary of the Island's Exciting History

With a history dating back to 3000 BC, Capraia has been inhabited by the Phoenecians, Greeks, Etruscans and Romans. It has housed a community of monks, has been fortified against pirates, and has been a penal colony. 

What To See and Do

There's just 1 town on the island - enough to visit in comfort but still feel like you've gotten away from it all. The island offers great hiking and walking, bird-watching, beaches, sailing and scuba diving, and some scrumptious local food.  

Capraia is a great place to dive in Italy: call the Capraia Diving Service to take you out. Or take a boat trip to the French island of Corsica (which, because it's France, is not on my map of Italy below) aboard the Dragut catamaran. Walk on the mule path which crosses the island, or branch off it to explore the island on a series of smaller paths. Do the half-hour walk from the town to Cala della Zurletta, or the more difficult 3-hour hike up to Monte delle Penne to enjoy the view over Capraia with Corsica on the horizon. Capraia is also where migratory birds stop on their way from Europe to Africa.

Local Gastronomic Delights

While you're there, try the locally-made honey, blackberry liqueur, goat cheese, fig jam, and of course, seafood.

Best Time to Visit

For hiking, gorgeous flowers, and birdwatching, visit in the spring. For fun in the sun, go in the summer, when the island is buzzing with tourists. If your priority is seafood, the locals recommend visiting between September and November, which is also when the water is still warm from the summer, and many of the tourists have gone. One tip for an autumn visit: bring mosquito repellent.

 

Photo of Capraia staircase by Marco Annunziata; Photo of Capraia island by Ginepro Roberto; Photo of Cala Rossa, the red volcanic rock of Capraia from www.isoladicapraia.com

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SCUBA Diving in Italy: Isola del Giglio

 Italy's Legambiente announced today that the Tuscan Archipelago's Isola del Giglio is ranked as the Number 1 coastal destination in the country this year, due not only to its pristine waters, gorgeous scenery, and picture-perfect beaches, but also because of its art, food, and respect for the environment. Number 2 on the list? Cinque Terre's towns of Riomaggiore, Monterosso and Vernazza.

Ideal for easier dives, Giglio is a quick and easy hop on the frequent Santo Stefano ferry. And as far as tourists go: compared to other islands in the Tuscan archipelago, it's busier than Giannutri but not as busy as Elba. 

Taken from the Greek word Aegilium, meaning goats, Giglio offers a lot even if you're not diving: spend time on its sandy beaches or visit the three towns. Climb up to Poggio della Pagana, at 500m, for a spectacular view overlooking the archipelago. Do one of the many short hikes on the island. Or visit the three-towered castle, built in the 12th century.

The best weather for diving is in autumn when the water is warm, otherwise it's worth visiting in the spring when the flowers are abundant.

If you need a guide or diving gear, or prefer an organized diving excursion, get in touch with Scuba's Angels (all of whom speak fluent English) and they will sort it out for you.

 Photo of Giglio by patapat

Murano vs. Burano vs. Torcello: I Vote Burano

 

Here are my top three reasons to visit the lovely Venetian island of Burano:

 

1. If you like to amble, or enjoy a wander off the beaten track, you'll appreciate Burano's atmosphere (less touristy, authentic, but still lots of pretty things to see), size (small thus manageable), and location (about 45 minutes from Venice: far enough, but not too far). 

2. Can you really resist those gorgeous painted houses?

3. The fabulous food and great atmosphere at Osteria Ai Pescatori

You may notice that buying lace is not on the list, even though Burano is famous, historically, for lace. There's even a lace museum, and some days it features lace-making demonstrations. But these days not much lace is actually produced on the island. There is lots available for purchase, but check before you commit: most of it is made in China. 

Murano

Don't get me wrong: Murano is pretty, and worth a visit, especially if you like glass or want to buy a chandelier (they do ship). Plus, it's on the way to Burano. Visit the Glass Museum, the church of Santi Maria e Donato, and one of the glass factories to catch a glass-blowing demonstration - which will most likely produce a Ferrari-like horse.  

Don't fall for the we'll-take-you-to-Murano-for-free-from Venice boat tour/scam unless you're comfortable in a hard-sell situation. And don't worry if you do get stuck: if you're not interested, walk away, and get the vaporetto back to Venice on your own time.

Torcello

If you want to get a little further off the beaten path, hop on the shuttle vaporetto from Burano to the island of Torcello. It used to be the seat of the Venetian Empire so has a couple historically significant churches which house some incredible frescoes and mosaics. Apart from that, and a couple restaurants, there isn't much more to see on Torcello.

Should I Stay or Should I Go?

I usually recommend people visit the islands if they have at least 3 full days in Venice. If you have fewer than 3 days, don't use one of them for the islands - just enjoy Venice itself. If you want to visit all 3 islands, allow a full day. For just Murano and Burano, plan on at least 6 hours, round-trip, though of course it depends on individual shopping/eating/wandering preferences.

 

Getting There

Take the vaporetto 41 or 42 from Venice. It depends where you catch it, but if you leave from Fondamenta Nuova, it's 15 minutes to Murano. From Murano, it's 33 minutes to Burano. From Burano to Torcello, it's a very quick hop.

Photo of Ferrari-like Murano horse taken in Murano by Sanjay

Photo of Burano houses from www.istockphoto.com

SCUBA Diving in Italy: Giannutri

  

The Island of Elba is the busiest and most popular of the Tuscan archipelago, but on the other end of the spectrum, visit the tiny island of Giannutri for a more off-the-beaten-track experience. Just 5 km long, it has a year-round population of 20, but sees more activity in the summertime when the daily 90-minute ferry starts from Porto Santo Stefano.

It is easy to incorporate a day of diving into an Italian tourist itinerary. For example, Monday: explore Tuscan hill towns; Tuesday: diving; Wednesday: visit a museum and do some wine-tasting. And Giannutri is a great day trip: catch the 10 am ferry, and return with the 4.45 pm one; you're back at your hotel with time to freshen up before dinner. 

If you want to stay overnight on Giannutri, it's possible, but there is no hotel on the island and camping is not allowed. Call the island's restaurant, La Taverna del Granduca, and they will set you up with accommodation.

If you need gear or a guide, contact Scuba's Angels, based out of Torino, and they will make sure you are organized.

Photo from www.about-maremma.com