Italy Beyond the Obvious

Five Reasons to Visit Trieste

 

Gorgeous seaside scenery, castles, caves, and of course the city itself: Trieste, nestled in Italy's northeast corner, might be a little out of your way, but here are a few reasons it's worth a visit. 

The Passeggiata Rilke is arguably one of Italy's prettiest walks, a cliffside path with incredible views over the Sistiana bay. At just over a mile (or 1.7 km) long, the path starts in front of the tourist office in the town of Sistiana (just north of Trieste) and ends at the Duino castle, famous for its legend about an evil husband who threw his wife over the cliff. Before she hit the water, the gods turned her to stone, reminicent of a veiled lady who can be seen today.

 

 

The Castle of Miramare and its huge gardens were built for the Austrian Habsburgs a mere 150 years ago, making this a pretty new castle by Italian standards. Visit the inside of the castle or just wander through its English gardens, full of exotic plants.

 

 

The Roman Theater is one of Trieste's main attractions, so spend half a day on foot in this nice-sized city. Walk along the water's edge and down the big pier. Spend some time in the majestic Piazza Unita' d'Italia, and shop in the Borgo Teresiano or Chinatown area. Here's a good audioguide of Trieste.

 

The Gigantic Grotto (Grotta Gigante) is the world's largest tourist cave, big enough to house St. Peter's Basilica. Allow about an hour for a visit, and if you're really into caves (so to speak, hee hee) visit the Museum of Speleology, nearby.

 

You may notice foreign influences in Trieste that you haven't seen in the rest of Italy, and that's because of its proximity to Austria, Slovenia, and Croatia. From a base in Trieste you can easily take a day trip to another country. The impressive Predjamski castle, built into a rock in Slovenia, is under an hour away.

 Did I miss any of your favorite spots in or around Trieste?

 

Photo of Rilke walk with Duino castle by Mexx 6oo, Photo of Miramare from istockphoto.com, Photo of Roman theater by Chiara Marra, other photos from Wikimedia Commons.

 

 

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5 Spectacular Castles near Parma

 

Foodies flock to Parma for cheese, ham, and more, while cyclists love the area because it's relatively flat compared to much of the rest of Italy. But there's another great reason to visit the area: incredible castles, and lots of them! Here are five of my favorites. 

 

Torrechiara

Almost 600 years old, this magnificent castle is about 10 miles from Parma and open all year to visitors. I think this castle sells itself with the photo above, but for opening hours, ticket prices, guided tours and more, here's everything you need to know about Torrechiara.

 

 

 

Bardi Castle

Described as the ultimate example of military architecture in the region, the Bardi fortress was built over 800 years ago, though some form of fortress has stood on the rock for over a thousand years. You'll see rooms decorated for Renaissance aristocrats as well as dungeons, lookout towers, soldiers' quarters and even a torture chamber. Lots of information about visiting Bardi here. The photo below is a view from a window of the castle, and here's a gorgeous photo of the castle itself. 

 

  

 

 

 

Rocca San Vitale / Fontanellato

This castle is conveniently located in the center of a small town and has a real moat surrounding it. Don't miss the inside for incredible frescoes and the spy tower where visitors can still watch the activity in the town's main square thanks to a series of lenses and prisms. Everything you need to know about visiting the Rocca San Vitale in Fontanellato. 

 

 

 

Roccabianca

You'll need a guided visit to see Roccabianca, but it's worth organizing. This 500-year old castle has impressive paintings and frescoes inside, and visitors can also see where cured meats were hung, where balsamic vinegar was matured, and even visit the distillery museum.  Lots of information on Roccabianca here.

 

 

 

Rivalta

An entirely satisfying castle visit, Rivalta is gorgeous from the outside and surrounded by a huge park. Inside, visitors can see a luxurious residence with a hall of honor, a billiard room, bedrooms and kitchen in addition to the usual dungeons included on castle tours. And if you're going to be in the area for New Year's Eve, the dinner and entertainment at Rivalta is a lot of fun. Lots of information on Rivalta here.

 

 

 

Keep in mind that castles can get chilly, so are a great activity for a hot summer day, but in cooler weather bring a sweater. Always check opening days and times, and whether a guided tour is required to visit the inside. And if the whole family is going, here are suggestions on visiting castles with kids.

 

 

Photo credits: Bardi by Ciccio Pizzettaro, Torrechiara from Wikimedia Commons, Fontanellato by [Icecool], Roccabianca from the Castelli Del Ducato di Parma, Rivalta from Nelparmense

 

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5 Reasons to visit the town of Vigevano

Even after 5 years in Italy - and more than half of that in Milan - I had never heard of Vigevano until a Milanese friend asked if I wanted to swing by her boyfriend's house - in a beautiful nearby town, she promised. Because he'd been out with us in Milan so often, I'd assumed her significant other was from a Milanese suburb like Milano Due (Milan Two) or Milano Tre (Milan Three). Instead, that day I was introduced to a stunning architectural jewel of a town. 

 
 

Here are 5 reasons you, too, should consider a visit to Vigevano:

1) Off the beaten track

If you enjoy discovering Italian towns with lots of atmosphere, lots of Italians, and few tourists, this is one. In fact its main square (see point 3, below) is often referred to as one of the most beautiful and least known squares from the Italian Renaissance.

2) Day trip from Milan 
At only 35 km away, Vigevano makes a great day trip from Milan. Hop on the train and you're there in 30 minutes. Spend most of a day, and you're back in Milan for dinner.

 

3) Beautiful architecture

The main square, called Piazza Ducale (the rectangle in the aerial photo), and the tower by Bramante are architectural gems built during the Renaissance. Leonardo Da Vinci was a guest at Vigevano and worked with Bramante, leaving his mark on the town as well. Vigevano's castle, the Castello Sforzesco (also in photo above), is one of Europe's largest. If the name of the castle rings a bell, note that Milan's castle is also called the Sforzesco castle - built (or more accurately, rebuilt) by the same family, the Sforzas.

 

4) Shoes

I admit I have a weakness for shoes in Italy. I often arrive with just the ones on my feet, and leave with quite a few pairs. Vigevano is a major center of shoe production in Italy, and the shoe industry overtook the town after World War II, causing its population to 'explode' from 17,000 in 1861 to over 65,000 today, and resulting in not-so-positive articles about Vigevano's capitalist "shoe fetish", like this one (in Italian). For anyone with an interest in the history of shoe construction, functionality, and design, visit the town's shoe museum, which also displays shoes worn by famous historical Italians such as Beatrice D'Este, and has a section on historical shoe styles worldwide.

5) Risotto, anyone?

Italy is Europe's top producer of rice, and much of it comes from the area around Vigevano. If you're reading this before September 17th, 2010, consider going during the 3-day rice festival, which includes street food, tastings, and a lot to offer for professionals in the field (no pun intended).

Vigevano square photo by Chris Thomas; shoes photo by Jeff Safi; aerial photo from www.pavia.lombardiainrete.it

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Castles with kids: How to choose a castle and ensure the kids love it

Most of the trips I plan for families include a castle, because every parent knows that kids love castles! If you'd like to put a castle on your Italy itinerary, here are some tips on finding the perfect castle, and making sure the kids get the most out of the visit.

 

Choosing your castle

• Italy has hundreds of castles, so unless you have a specific one in mind, you likely will not need to rearrange your itinerary to include a castle - just pick one of the ones near where you're going anyway. Check this list of castles in Italy, or if you're going to be in Tuscany, consider doing one of the six Chianti castle routes (each with several castles).

• Then do an internet photo search to narrow down your list.

• If you want to visit the inside of the castle, check that it's actually open to tourists, and its opening hours. Expect to pick up the phone: many castles don't post a lot of information online. If you can't get through to the castle itself, call the tourist office of the biggest nearby city or town. 

• Once you're in Italy on your way to the chosen castle, give them a call to double check the castle is indeed currently open.

• If the castle allows it (ask), bring a picnic.

How to make the most of your family castle visit

The key to making sure the kids enjoy the visit is to ask them lots of questions. When I worked as a tour guide in an art gallery, we always used this approach with our elementary school tours. When I did guided tours - for adults - of castles and forts (both in Italy and Canada) we told people what they were looking at, with lots of information. We adults like facts. Kids, however, like to imagine, so make the most of it. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

• Ask the kids why they think the castle was built. Do they see a moat, or is the castle built on a hill? Do the kids think they could climb those high walls? (and if they did, what might happen?) Help them conclude that it was built for protection, then ask why did the people who built it need protection? Were they protecting money, their horses, their video games, themselves? Ask the kids what they might want to protect in their lives. 

• Ask them who they think built the castle. Would someone have to have lots of power or money to build a castle like this or could anyone do it? How long do they think it would take to build a castle like this (you just want them to realize that it would have taken a long time).

• Ask them to find the parts of the castle. Is there a moat, a ditch or a drawbridge? Why would those be useful? Are there towers or lookout "holes" in the walls and what would those be used for? How do you think they defended their castle? Here's a diagram of the parts of a castle if you want to learn proper terms before you go, and here's an interesting list of Medieval weapons.  

• If you visit the inside, ask them to keep an eye out for where the stables might have been (look for iron rings on the walls used to tie up horses), where the living quarters or kitchen might have been, where the guards would have stood, and where the bathrooms are :) Do they think it would be fun or comfortable? Ask them whether they'd like to live here.

• If you can climb up to the castle's highest point, ask them how far they can see. Ask what they think the watchmen would have been looking for (and did they have binoculars)? Can you see other castles from here? (often castles communicated with each other if they saw invaders). If so, ask the kids why people had to protect themselves from their neighbors (history lesson: Italy has been a unified country for less than 150 years, so castles protected themselves from "foreigners".) 

Keep a pen and paper handy because sometimes their minds come up with the most incredible ideas! Have you visited castles with kids or have additional questions to add (or disagree)? Please let me know in the comments!

Photo of the Castle of Fenis in the Aosta region by Elizabeth Buie

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Off the Beaten Track in Tuscany: Volterra

There's off the beaten track and then there's way off the beaten track. Volterra has both. Spend half a day in this tiny medieval Tuscan hilltown (pop: 12,000) without the tourist crowds of say, nearby San Gimignano. Here are five reasons - and two bonus reasons - to go out of your way for Volterra.

 

• Visit the Etruscan museum and the Roman theater. I first visited Volterra on a high school class trip to the Etruscan museum, and indeed if you have any interest whatsoever in the Etruscans, who lived in Italy from about 800 to 500 BC, visit the Guarnacci Etruscan Museum. Also don't miss the 2,000 year old Roman theater (photo above).

• Eat local.You are in wild boar (cinghiale, in Italian) country, so if you're a meat-eater, try it. Volterra is also surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, so don't leave without sampling the local wine and olive oil. I also recommend persimmons, artichokes, white truffles, and mushrooms when in season.

• Buy rocks. The gorgeous semi-transparent stone alabaster is local to this area, so this is a great place to acquire some (or just take photos if you don't really have the extra weight allowance to carry rocks home in your suitcase).

• Photograph the castle. The picture-perfect castle is a maximum-security prison (photo below) so you probably don't want to go in and wander around. But there are a couple good reasons to visit at specific times - see the section below about way off the beaten track.

• Listen to a concert in the Tuscan hills. The famous Teatro del Silenzio (Theater of Silence) is near Volterra, pretty much in the middle of nowhere (aerial photo). If you happen to be planning to visit the area on July 25th, 2010, it may be worth trying to get tickets to hear Andrea Bocelli. And if you do get tickets to any performance at this theater, read these tips on being prepared for a concert at the Teatro del Silenzio. 

 

Way off the Beaten Track

• Eat at the gourmet restaurant inside the prison. So, the maximum-security prison has a restaurant - a good one. Pros: You can see the castle-prison from the inside, the food is allegedly very good, reasonably priced, and it's a unique experience. Cons (so to speak): You need at least 2 months' notice to get a reservation, and that's after checking that the restaurant is actually going to be serving. You'll also go through a background check, and your place setting will be, not surprisingly, paper plates and plastic cutlery. Contact ufficioturistico@volterratur.it to ask about serving days and reservations.

• See the prisoners put on a play. Are you surprised to hear the maximum-security prison that serves gourmet food also has a nationally-renowned theater troupe? About 100 Italian prisons have theater troupes but Volterra's is considered the best in Italy, and even has won - twice - the prestigious Ubu national theater prize. The troupe performs at the Volterra theater festival, held at the end of July every year.

A Note on the beaten track

The popularity of the New Moon book and movie has increased tourism to Volterra, and the tourism agency has made the most of the publicity, leading twice-weekly tours and providing printed maps marked with New Moon sights. So it's useful to know - either to participate or to avoid it - that New Moon tours run Fridays at 9 pm and Sundays at 5 pm between April and September.

Photo of Roman theater by Mike Stewart; Volterra castle photo from istockphoto.com

 

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In and Around the City of Bari

 

Whether you’re interested in soccer, seafood, beaches, shopping, or castles and architecture, it’s worth adding a stop in the small city of Bari (pop. < 400,000) to your Puglia itinerary. Founded by the Greeks, and then under Roman rule starting in the 3rd century BC, there’s lots to do in modern-day Bari. So hold on to your bag, keep your wits about you, and spend a few days enjoying the sights below.

Wander around the Old Town, and visit the Basilica of San Nicolas, with the tomb of the original St. Nicholas.  (Your decision on whether to tell the kids that you’re standing over Santa’s bones).  Don’t miss the city’s Norman castle, Svevo, or its Romanesque Cathedral, St. Sabinus.  Shop in high-end boutiques along the Via Sparano (photo above) or - if you can - get tickets to a football (soccer) match and watch Bari’s Serie A team in the San Nicola Stadium.  Bari’s Teatro Petruzzelli was one of the top opera houses in Italy until it was fire-bombed in 1991, and has been under construction ever since - but is allegedly reopening before 2010.  Eat gelato and people-watch along the the seaside promenade, or lungo mare on the edge of town.  And if you’re in the mood for some local food, try the riso, patate e cozze (rice, potatoes, and mussels).

Nearby

• Relax on the beaches at Torre Canne (photo above), about an hour south of the city.
• Visit the town of Polignano a Mare, about 30 minutes south of the city, and eat in its restaurant-in-a-grotto (photo). Note: the restaurant gets a lot of publicity because of its unique feature, but in general it has mixed reviews: most agree that it’s expensive with small portions, and that you pay for the ambiance.
• Go see the Castel del Monte (photo below) about 40 km west of the city.
• Visit the cone-shaped Trulli dwellings in the town of Alberobello.

 

Genealogical Research

If you’re looking for relatives or ancestors from the area, try searching the Church of the Latter Day Saints’ website, and/or use the Italian white pages online to find people.

Photo of Palazzo Mincuzzi by Paolo Margari.it; Photo of the beach at Torre Canne by Topo .; Photo of Castel del Monte from www.istockphoto.com

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Aosta: 10 Best Things To Do in the Summertime

Aosta and its surrounding valley get a lot of attention during ski season, but if you're not a skiier, or if you plan to visit in the summer, pay attention:

1) Visit the town itself. Built as a military base rather than a Roman resort (such as Pompeii), you won't see Roman mosaics or frescoes decorating the town of Aosta. However it has quite a few well preserved ruins, including a restored Roman Theater, the 2000+ year old Arco d'Augusta, Roman walls, including the gigantic Praetorian Gate seen in the photo below, and a nearby Roman bridge, the Pont D'Ael. Sit and soak up the mountain views or people-watch from the main square, and visit the pretty 11th century cathedral, with its gorgeous stained-glass windows, colorful fresco, and mosaic floors.

Getting there: Aosta is easily accessible from Turin and Milan by train, and is well-connected to the rest of the valley by bus. If you're visiting the area and not planning to rent a car, Aosta (or Sarre, very close by) is a great place to base yourself. There are no cars in Aosta, so if you arrive by car, you'll park outside the city and walk in. The walk from the car park, the train station and the bus stop are all short: plan on 10 - 15 minutes.

2) Hikes of literally every difficulty and length can be found near Aosta: start by looking at this great list of hikes in The Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, which has 450 miles of marked trails and mule tracks.  For more hard-core hikers, hike up to a rifugio like this one, and stay overnight. If you just have time for a short walk with some great views, stop near Courmayeur for a short walk up Val Ferret to enjoy the views of the Italian side of Mont Blanc. 

3) The area is one of the best in Italy for mountain biking, with over 1000 km of country roads, in addition to mule tracks, farm roads and wooded paths. Hire an expert mountain biking guide and go off on your own, or take advantage of the ski infrastructure: both Pila and La Thuile offer summer downhill biking, including a Bike Park in the Baby Gorraz area of Pila.  

4) Relax (or get rid of your lactic acid) in a thermal springs, such as the famous Pre Saint Didier. 

5) Ride in a balloon or go paragliding - also called parapenting - over the mountains, and gape at the scenery from above. I once counted 22 paragliders floating down into the valley above Courmayeur - quite a sight to see having just emerged from the 7-mile-long Mont Blanc tunnel! 

6) Go mountain climbing. If you don't want to go on your own, here's some information on hiring a guide licensed to the region.

7) Explore the area on a motorcycle. And if you're driving, watch out for the motorcycles.

8) Eat Cheese. (You can do this year-round.) You've heard of the wine classifications DOC and DOCG, right? Well the locally-made Il Vallee D'Aoste Fromadzo cheese is DOP (yes, really), and is listed right up there with a local grappa as one of the two best products of the Aosta Valley on this website, which lists all the most famous or best food products from each region in Italy. 

9) Visit some castles such as the nearby Château St. Pierre or the Château Sarriod de la Tour. From there you can see Châtel Argent (in ruins); the Sarre Castle, which could also be visited; Aymavilles, which is private; the Fenis castle, in the photo above, is also nearby.

10) Experience jaw-dropping views from the cable car over Mont Blanc/Monte Bianco. The base of the cable car over Mont Blanc is in La Palud, near Courmayeur. On your way up, enjoy incredible views of the Aosta Valley, then change cable cars (visit a botanic garden here if you want) to get to Punta Helbronner, on the border between Italy and France. When you've had your fill, take a 4-person cable car to the Aiguille du Midi, and then another cable car down to Chamonix and a bus back through the tunnel. Tips: Allow a full day, though it's not a long day. Dress in layers, it can get chilly. Note that the cable cars do not run if the weather is bad; or if it's windy even if the weather is beautiful; or between 1 and 2 pm. To travel against the traffic, go from Italy to France rather than vice-versa. No need to book a tour for this, just arrive and do it yourself.

Photo of Praetorian Gate in Aosta by jkiel; Photo of mountain ibex by Cristianocani; Photo of paraglider by Tim*A; Photo of Fenis castle by Eric Borda

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San Marino

First and foremost: San Marino is not actually in Italy, but is its own country. It happens to be the oldest sovereign state and constitutional republic in the world, having started out in the year 301.

It's not that obvious you're entering another country on a visit to San Marino: you won't need a passport, the currency is the Euro, and people speak Italian (though there is a Sammarinese dialect). 

But look a little more closely: notice the postage stamps and collectors coins, the license plates, and the country's unique flag. Visit the castles to get a sense of the country's long history and you'll realize you're visiting a place with a unique legacy.

On A Visit

Bring comfortable walking shoes and lots of energy, and walk up to the hilltop castles on the three peaks of Mount Titano, to soak up the history and fabulous views. The photo is of the first tower, called Rocca or Guaita. Watch the brief changing of the guard in Piazza della Libertà, and explore the small streets.

For some local flavor, sample the chocolatey "three towers" cake, locally-made cheese, or wine: the red Sangiovese, or the white Biancale. 

You don't need a lot of time to see the main town of San Marino - a day is plenty - but consider staying overnight: it can be a bit overrun with tourists, including Italian school groups (I first visited the country on a 5-day class trip when I was in high school, or Liceo Classico, in Milan). It's not surprising that 50% of the country's GDP is from tourism. But when the tourists get back on their buses, you'll have some time to explore its streets and soak up the serene and authentic atmosphere.

A Bit of History

Without reviewing San Marino's very long story in detail, I think there's one obvious question: how on earth did San Marino escape joining the rest of the parts of Italy when Garibaldi led unification in 1871? 

Answer: San Marino had given refuge to people persecuted for their support of the unification, so when it asked to not be included into the Italian state, Garibaldi obliged. 

Facts

• population: 30,000 
• size: 61 square kilometers
• 3 million visitors a year

The San Marino Grand Prix is not actually in San Marino, but is in the town of Imola, 100 km away.

Photo from www.istockphoto.com

Parma

Foodies and music lovers descend regularly on the city of Parma and with good reason: home of parmesan cheese and Parma ham, or prosciutto, Parma is also home to the Teatro Regio, one of the best opera houses in Italy, and was the birthplace of the famous conductor and musician, Toscanini.

Food

Go on a tour to see how parmesan cheese is made, (read the rules here, and contact the consortium to arrange a free 3-hour tour) or do a tasting of different cheeses. 

Visit one of the prosciutto producers to understand the specific and unique process behind the creation of prosciutto di Parma (call Quattro Stagioni which produces 20,000 prosciutti di Parma a year). 

Or take the train a mere 30 minutes to the city of Modena and - with reservations - enjoy a free tour of a balsamic vinegar production facility, such as Malpighi. 

Parma is not just about cheese & ham - the region of Emilia-Romagna is known for its food in general: pasta and sauces, meats, cheeses, breads, produce, and wine. Piazza della Ghiaia hosts one of the best markets in Italy, on every morning except Sunday. 

For the budget-conscious, head to Via Farini about 6 pm to buy a drink and enjoy the free buffet that accompanies it! As I've written about in the past in Milan and Turin, the aperitivo hour is a great way to eat early or save money or just mingle with the locals.

Art & Architecture:

Parma also has a lot to offer in art and architecture: don't miss the main square, with the cathedral or duomo, and the gorgeous baptistery made of pink marble (see photo). Go inside the duomo, look up at the cupola, and gape in awe at Correggio's fresco masterpiece, Assumption of the Virgin, done 1526 - 1530.

Visit the 400-year-old Teatro Farnese, made completely of wood with lots of trompe d'oeil paintings. 

Some other good stuff to do

• visit the famous conductor and musician Toscanini's museum and birth place.  

• If you're traveling with kids who need to run around, visit the Orto Botanico di Parma, a huge botanical gardens. Admission is free, and it's open daily, but check here for hours (it's in Italian, but scroll down and look next to where it says "orario" at the bottom)   

• Walk around the campus of the University of Parma, one of the oldest in the world  

• The area around Parma is flat. So if you're looking to rent a bike and ride in the Italian countryside, and want to avoid the steep hills in Tuscany, look no further!

• Speaking of the countryside, if you like castles, this is the place to be. Click here for a list and description.

photo by Sanjay

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