Italy Beyond the Obvious

Le Gattare: Caretakers of Italy's stray cats

 

If you've been to Rome, you may have noticed the stray cats hanging out in the Colosseum or the Forum. Maybe you even visited the cat sanctuary located in Largo di Torre Argentina (photo above), where cats have called home since its excavation in 1929. Look for the cats, however, and you may spot a gattara, or volunteer cat caretaker. Historically older women, the gattare have been around as long as the stray cats, and I've noticed that recently they seem to be getting more positive attention, and not just in Rome. 

In the city of Monza, outside of Milan, a new course is being offered starting May 12th, to teach potential new gattare - or "feline colony tutors" - what and when to feed stray cats, how to treat an illness, and who to contact if the cats get sick, among other things.

The city of Genoa actually does a cat census, and estimates that there are tens of thousands of stray cats in the city, and 700 volunteer gattare. This article explains (in Italian) that the city thinks it's important to care for stray cats since their health or illness affects that of both animals and people in the city.

And, for Italians living near stray cats but not near a course offered on how to care for them, they can buy a Manual for Gattare (in Italian). 

It's noticing details like this that I think adds a level of richness to a visit to Italy, so keep your eye out and see if you can spot a gattara on your next trip!

Photo of Torre Argentina by Xiquinhosilva

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Short Trips from Milan

When I worked in Milan I took advantage of weekends to travel. Below I've made a list of my favorite places to visit from Milan in 1, 2, 3 or 4 days. I've put cities in a list based on the minimum amount of time I recommend spending there. Unless otherwise specified, all travel times are by train.

 

If you have just 1 day...

• Visit the Carthusian Monastery of Pavia, only 20 minutes away.
• The town and beautiful park of Monza are just 10 minutes away.
• The ancient town of Bergamo is under an hour away.
• The Roman town of Como, on the lake with the same name, is just an hour away.
• The Lake Maggiore is also one hour away. Take the train to the beautiful town of Stresa and go from there.
• Go to Switzerland! In 1 hour you are in the pretty lakeside town of Lugano.
• Gawk at the the picturesque alpine scenery of the Aosta Valley.
• In just over an hour, you're in the atmospheric university city of Bologna.
• Visit the gastronomically and architecturally significant Parma, less than 90 minutes away. Arrive hungry.
• At 90 minutes away, Turin is somewhat of a long day trip but one of my favorite people lives there so I've done it many times.
• The port city of Genoa is also about 90 minutes away. It's a long day trip but if that's all you have, then go, and at the end of the day you'll be promising to return as soon as you can.

 

If you have 2 days, consider any of the above, and in addition....

• The spa town of Sirmione, on Lake Garda is a couple hours away. 
• Visit the town or see an outdoor opera in the small city of Verona, under 2 hours away.
• Get a little off the beaten track in the town of Vicenza about 2 hours away - and don't miss Palladio's Villa Rotonda.
• Go to Florence, just under 2 hours away.
• Enjoy art, architecture and food in the gorgeous city of Padua, just over 2 hours away.
• Spend time in Venice, about 2.5 hours away. Two days in Venice is a little rushed but if that's all you have, then go.
• Hike the Cinque Terre, which is about 3 hours away by train.
• Sure why not - go to Pisa and climb the leaning tower.

 

If you have 3 days, consider any of the above, and in addition...

• From Florence, visit the towns of Lucca, Siena, San Gimignano - or if you have a car, Monteriggioni or Volterra.
• Spend a couple days on the island of Elba. Allow about 4 hours for the train plus 1 hour for the ferry. (Though this trip is easier by car when starting from Milan.)
• See the spectacular Byzantine mosaics in the city of Ravenna, and while you're in the area, stop in and visit the town of Brisighella. 
• In 4 hours you're in the gorgeous Umbrian city of Perugia. From there visit Assisi as well.

 

If you have 4 days, consider any of the above, and in addition...

• Venture further into Tuscany, visiting the towns of Pienza and Montepulciano.
• Go to Rome.
• Explore more of Umbria from your base in Perugia. Visit the towns of Gubbio, Spoleto, Todi, and Orvieto.
• Explore more of the Veneto, going up to Bassano del Grappa, Asolo, and the countryside - red and Prosecco wineries! - north of Verona.
• Go skiing at Cortina D'Ampezzo in the Dolomites. Or if it's summertime, go hiking near Ortisei in the Val Gardena.

I don't recommend going south of Rome if you have only 4 days total, nor do I recommend trying to go to Sardinia or Sicily. You just need more time that that (even though, I know, Italy does look misleadingly small on the map!)

Photos from top to bottom: Parma, Sirmione, Lucca, the Dolomites near Ortisei. All photos by Sanjay

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Christ of the Abyss

{Did you think from the title that my blogging standards had deteriorated? No, this post is about diving.}

Submerged and then cemented to the sea floor of the Mediterranean over 50 years ago, the underwater statue of Christ of the Abyss (Cristo degli Abissi) is one of the most famous dive destinations in Italy. The statue is found in the waters between the Ligurian towns of Camogli and Portofino, and it commemorates the diver (and the first Italian to use SCUBA gear) Dario Gonzetti, who died during a dive near the spot in 1950. 

Since the 2.5m tall statue praises the heavens in just 15m of water, diving down for a look is considered an easy dive. Use a local dive shop in Portofino such as this one to organize an excursion to the site. Non-divers can see a copy of the statue in the nearby San Fruttuoso Abbey or at the Diving Museum in Ravenna.

Other submerged Christ of the Abyss statues in Italy include one in the Lake of Palú (link in Italian), a lake close to the Swiss and Austrian borders. Another one, recently repaired due to vandalism, is found off the Island of Giglio in the Tuscan Archipelago.

Outside of Italy, there is a Christ of the Abyss in the port of St. George, on the Caribbean island of Grenada; and another submerged off Key Largo, Florida.

Photo by Stella Styles

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Hiking along the Mediterranean Coast: Camogli

The Amalfi Coast and the Cinque Terre may be the most well-known spots in Italy for walking trails with incredible views of the Mediterranean coastline; but here's an equally spectacular, more off-the-beaten track suggestion: spend a few days in the fishing village of Camogli (photo below), just 30 minutes south of Genoa. With its short hikes, beaches, good network of ferries, and great food, you'll feel like you've stumbled upon an undiscovered gem. 

Hikes from Camogli

• 30 minutes to the church of San Rocco: a bit of uphill and then a gentle slope takes you to the pretty church of San Rocco. It's a walk through olive groves, with a gorgeous view of Camogli and even Genoa in the distance. The path is signposted and marked with 2 red dots along the way. 

• 2.5 hours to the fishing village and Abbey of San Fruttuoso (photo below): used as an abbey, a home for fishermen, a den for pirates, and then the property of Princes, the Abbey is now open for visits (except Mondays). San Fruttuoso is also a fishing village with a few restaurants, but is accessible only by boat or on foot. 

• About an hour to Punta Chiappa: visit San Rocco on your way, or head straight to Punta Chiappa, and lie on the beach or jump straight into the sea to cool off after your hike. It's worth going to Punta Chiappa just to eat lunch or dinner at the Trattoria Do Spadin, which has great typical regional fare. (Info: Via San Nicolò Capodimonte, 55 Punta Chiappa, tel. 0185770624.) The restaurant is accessible only on foot or by boat, therefore its opening times depend on the ferries (and hence the weather), so definitely call ahead to check.

• 4 hours from Camogli to Portofino, via San Rocco and San Fruttuoso.  After the San Fruttuoso Abbey, there's a steep climb up, then the trail is fairly flat until the descent down into Portofino (90 minutes hiking from San Fruttuoso). 

Not in the Mood for Hiking Back?

Hike to San Fruttuoso or Punta Chiappa one-way, have a long Italian lunch, and then take the boat back to Camogli (or the train, if you've hiked to Portofino). If there are people in your party who don't want to hike at all, they can take the boat there, meet you, and take the boat back again. 

More in Camogli

Lie on the beach or visit the old town. Let the kids ride the carousel, play in the square, and see how many trompe l'oeil windows they can spot painted on the local houses. Eat fish (free at the fish festival on the second weekend of May) and don't miss the local cheese focaccia, and the local pasta, trofie, with pesto. Eat gelato, ideally while walking along the boardwalk at 6 pm, during the Italian passeggiata. Visit a bakery to sample a sweet Camogliese, a chocolate-filled cream puff.  Stop in to admire the architecture of the Basilica Santa Maria Assunta, and the castle and aquarium next door. If you're there on a Wednesday, explore the local market stalls. 

Getting There

Take the train. Camogli's population of 7,000 doubles in high season, mostly with Italians on holiday (many just go for the weekend). If you've decided to drive anyway, allow lots of time to be stuck in traffic as everyone else tries to find parking too. Parking strategies: try Piazza Matteotti and Via San Rocco, with free parking. Then try the pay parking in Via Cuneo and Piazza Matteotti. Still nothing? Head back towards Genoa a few miles, and look out for the Gulliver supermarket which has lots of pay parking spots and a free bus back to Camogli.

Photo of Camogli, in HDR, by Federico Perola

Photo of the Abbey of San Fruttuoso by Stefano Piemonte

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Genoa

 

Rarely if ever have I seen this gorgeous city - Genoa in English, Genova in Italian - included on tourist itineraries to Italy, unless the itinerary also involved a cruise ship. Located on the Mediterranean sea, and near the Alps and the French border, Genoa exceeds expectations every time. 

Sea-Related Activities

Amble along the 2.5 km long seaside promenade, Corso Italia (see photo).

Find the old harbor and visit the acquarium; or for ship lovers, visit the Museum of the Sea. Wander through the tropical plants and small animals inside the "Bolla" (see photo, below), which was built for the 2001 G8 Summit. Eat fish.

City Activities

Visit the old town: walk down Via Garibaldi and admire the many Rolli palaces, a UNESCO World Heritage site (for more, click here). Sit in the main square, Piazza de Ferrari, and marvel at the architecture around you: the Opera house, the Doge's Palace, and the lively fountain. Visit the house where Christopher Columbus lived as a child. 

Don't miss the 1500 year old funky striped Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (see photo, a detail of the main entrance). Eat pesto with trofie or trenette. Eat focaccia. Take the public elevator up to Piazza Castello and enjoy the views.

Open Space

The parco dell'Acquasola, in the centre of the city, is a great spot for the kids to run around. Or take the short train ride to Nervi, to explore the gigantic Parchi di Nervi, a green space and amalgamation of 3 villas plus their gardens. If you go on a Sunday, you'll join the throngs of local Genovesi.  

Art

Visit the National Gallery, Palazzo Spinola. Or admire the Genoese and Flemish art at the Palazzo Bianco museum, and ride the acensore panoramico up to the roof to take in the views.

Photos of boats, La Bolla, and Cattedrale di San Lorenzo detail by Sanjay

Photo of Corso Italia by Federico Perola, used with permission.