Italy Beyond the Obvious

On my Italy Radar

 

Below are a few things to see and do in Italy that have come across my must-bookmark radar recently. I also share these kinds of specific links and tips frequently on Facebook.

Dolomites ski resort gets gold star  Although Cortina D'Ampezzo is probably the most famous ski area in the Dolomites, and the favorite of many Italians, 220 experts from "Ski Area Test" reviewed 26 ski areas across Austria, Italy, France, Slovenia and Switzerland, and gave Italy's Obereggen the Gold Quality award. (Now where do I sign up to be a part of the Ski Area Test Team?!)

 

 

 

Scrovegni Chapel online If you want to see what all the fuss is about over Giotto's frescoes in Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, go to www.Haltadefinizione.com to see them up close. Click on the icons to move the view up and down and zoom in and out for detail in the whole chapel. Getting the frescoes online involved 14,000 digital images and took a year of processing. 

 

America officially appreciates Palladio Concurrent Resolution 259, essentially an official acknowledgment of Italian architect Andrea Palladio's influence on the USA, was passed by the House on November 17, 2010, and by the Senate on December 6, 2010. The resolution "(1) recognizes the 500th anniversary of Andrea Palladio's birth year; (2) recognizes his tremendous influence on architecture in the United States; and (3) expresses its gratitude for the enhancement his life and career has bestowed upon the Nation's built environment." See the detail of Concurrent Resolution 259 here. The architect left his mark in Italy with buildings in Venice (photo of the Redentore Church, below) and around the Veneto region, probably most notably several Palladian Villas.

 

 

Camping, I mean, Glamping Want to go camping in Italy but don't want to bring the gear, or just like the idea of four-poster beds and fully-equipped kitchens (a la high-end African safari)? Consider glamping in Tuscany, Lake Garda, or Venice.  

 

Dog sledding in southern Italy When I saw the photos of dog sledding on this website, they definitely reminded me of the time I went dog sledding. In Sweden. Above the Arctic Circle. But you really can go dog sledding in Calabria.

 

Redentore church by Dalbera, skiers photo by Fran Tapia

 

 

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Biking atop Lucca's walls

 

For anyone who loves being on a bike, or wants to see the city from a different perspective, or just wants to break up the museums-churches-walking routine, I definitely recommend adding this short and easy bike ride to your Lucca visit. And, you can say you've been cycling in Tuscany without having had to sweat your way up Tuscany's many hills. 

 

As you can see from the google maps screen shot below, the walls (and hence the path) completely circle the city, but you're not balancing on a narrow wall, as many people first imagine. The path is very wide (wide enough that it was once used as a racetrack), and since it's also completely flat and full of great picnic spots (here are some tips on picnicking in Italy), I often recommend it as a great activity for anyone traveling in Italy with kids. And when you're done biking there is a lot more to see and do in Lucca.

 

Bike rental: Rent bikes at Cicli Bizzarri, inside the walls at the north end / top of the town. They are open daily, and there's no need to reserve a bike in advance unless you are booking bikes for a large group. Rental rates are a few Euros an hour, and they'll keep your ID while you take the bike out. They also rent helmets but they'll tell you they're not necessary. Riding one circuit on the walls will take you about 25 minutes at a relatively slow pace (it's a park, with people walking, lots of bikes etc. so don't expect to race around), but if you'd like to go for a longer ride, ask the people at Cicli Bizzarri - they have plenty of nearby route suggestions. 

Cicli Bizzarri, Piazza Santa Maria, 32, 55100 Lucca, Italy +39 0583 496682 ‎

 

Cycling gear: Absolutely do not worry about cycling gear for this bike ride. You can rent a helmet but after being in Lucca five minutes you'll see that practically nobody wears one. But Lucca is a big biking town, and you'll see women on bikes wearing skirts, heels, and carrying designer bags. So really, wear whatever you want.

 

Nearby: It's very easy to do a day trip to Lucca from Florence (it's about an hour on the train), or include it on a Tuscany itinerary that might also include Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra, Monteriggioni, the magical roofless Abbey of San Galgano, Montepulciano and Pienza. It's not even that far (though I wouldn't recommend it as a day trip) from one of my favorite hotels in Italy, the Locanda Dell'Amorosa.

 

Photo of Lucca's walls by Sanjay

 

 

 

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Welcome!

If you're looking for itinerary design services or travel consulting, you'll find general information, a sample itinerary, client testimonials and more on the right side of the screen under the heading Let Me Plan Your Trip or Coach You to do it.

Or, feel free to use the information in the articles on this website to plan your own trip. You may want to start with Popular Posts (you'll see it on the right side of the screen if you scroll down), and look at the Categories section (scroll down more). If you have questions please contact me at: italybto at gmail dot com.

An incredible modern art hotel near Verona (but it's not for everyone)

 

Like any business person, I keep track of what makes my clients happy. I know the guides, restaurants, hotels and attractions across Italy that will make a majority of clients fall (more) in love with the country (and I often share links on the Italy Beyond the Obvious Facebook fan page). But I also know of many other gems that the majority of people probably won't love, but that the right person will adore. The Byblos Art Hotel is one of them. For anyone who likes modern art, appreciates the unique and quirky, and wants a high-end hotel anywhere near Verona or Lake Garda, look no further. 

 

The outside of the hotel looks just like a classic 15th century Veneto villa. Oh, wait it is.  

 

The inside was fully restored and opened as a working hotel in 2005, but is also a permanent collection of original artworks by artists from around the world. The furniture, tableware, and bedroom lamps are part of the art, and some of it is from the Byblos pret a porter collection which means if you like it, it's available for purchase.

 

 

There are a million things to do in the area, including visiting Verona and its opera festival, Lake Garda, Padua, Palladian villas in the Veneto, or even Venice. Not to mention you're in the middle of Valpolicella wine country. But you'll want to spend some time at the hotel exploring its gardens, spa, or eating at its gourmet restaurant (which is open to the public, so you can go eat dinner there even if you're not a guest).

 

 

Full disclosure: this post probably sounds like an ad, but there is nothing to disclose here. I'm not getting paid or compensated in any way from writing about this hotel. I asked a hotel representative for the photos because I wanted to write about this very unique hotel.

 

All photos belong to Byblos Art Hotel

 

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5 reasons to go south of Amalfi

 

The towns on the Amalfi Coast are popular for good reason, but they can get busy in high season. Plan your vacation a few miles down the coast for some impressive food and culture - and no need to give up the incredible coastline you were expecting. Below are five very worthwhile stops. 

The ruins of Paestum

Famous for its Greek and Roman temples and painted tombs, Paestum dates back to the 7th century B.C. and is under two hours from the town of Amalfi. Spend a couple hours visiting this relatively small site, and then head to.. 

  

 

 

See how Mozzarella di Bufala is made

Did you know that the buffalo (bufala) part of the melt-in-your-mouth mozzarella di bufala, actually refers to water buffalo? Since the cheese-making process must start no more than 12 hours after the milking, you know that any production facility is going to have actual water buffalo living nearby. There are many producers near Salerno and here's a specific recommendation near Paestum. 

 

 

 

Shop for ceramics in Vietri Sul Mare

There are several great places to buy ceramics in Italy, and Vietri sul Mare is in the top few. The photo below is of the town's famous landmark and ceramics factory, Ceramica Solimene.

 

 

Eat in Cetara

Easily accessible from the town of Amalfi, the town of Cetara is considered to be the foodie capital of the Amalfi coast (heaven especially for anchovy lovers!). But don't just go for dinner. The town itself is really pretty, has a nice beach, and with few tourists.

 

The incredible coastline

The famous rugged coastline between Sorrento and Amalfi actually continues on down the coast. Not far from Paestum is the Cilento National Park with incredible beaches, views, and fantastic towns (not to mention great hiking and biking trails but that will have to be another post). Driving along coastal roads, it's about a 2-hour drive from Paestum down to Palinuro point, pictured below. 

 

And just another hour or so down the coast gets you to this stunning scenery near Maratea:

 

So there you have it: If you went to the Amalfi Coast, loved it and want more but different, this is for you. If you want the Amalfi Coast but not the tourists, this is for you. And if you've been: Do you agree?

 

Maratea coastline by Mozzercork; water buffalo photo by L-T-L (Almost back); Vietri sul Mare by 'O Tedesc; Cetara photo by Antolo; Palinuro photo from webalice.it

 

 

 

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An unusual client request

 

I'm planning a trip for a group of Italy travelers right now who have an uncommon request. They said:

We'll have 9 days in Italy and would like to see the main highlights of Rome, Florence and Venice.

 

As you can imagine, with a business called Italy Beyond the Obvious, I don't plan the standard Italy "triangle" very often, though pieces of it often make it into client itineraries. Below I've shared some examples of actual client requests - they aren't exactly off the wall, but certainly wouldn't be met by the cookie cutter Italy itinerary.

• We want to hike and bike in the Dolomites and visit Lake Garda, and we aren't at all interested in art or architecture.

• We want to go fishing near Naples.

• We are a vegan/vegetarian family, traveling with a 3 year old, and want to explore Tuscany.

• Please plan my seventh trip to Italy, traveling the week between Christmas and New Year's.

• We're driving from France to Venice and want recommendations for three off-the-beaten-track places to stop for a few days and explore.

• We'd like to see the Jewish highlights of Emilia-Romagna.

• We are a family of four and would like to explore the island of Elba.

• Our two kids love hands-on activities, and would like to do paper-making, ceramics, see the olive oil making process and visit a cheese factory.

• We'd like to go horseback riding in Sicily in January.

• We've never met a museum we didn't like, and want to make sure our trip has a good balance of Etruscan, Roman, medieval and Renaissance art and history.

• We want a trip centered around local and fresh food and wine.

• It will be our fourth visit to Rome (/Florence/Venice/etc), and we'd like to see some different things.

• We want a cooking class, and love shopping, wineries and dancing the night away.

 

Photo from istockphoto.com

 

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