Italy Beyond the Obvious

Italy's Autogrill cookbooks

After my interview and the discussion about (among other things) the Autogrill cookbooks on the Eye on Italy podcast, I got the books out to check the publisher and locate them online. I didn't find evidence that they could be purchased online (except for this), but I had fun thumbing through my bookmarked recipes, and decided to do some cooking.

 

Except when baking, I usually use recipes as more of a guideline rather than a set of precise instructions. I buy what looks good, and then search for a recipe. Often I make such significant substitutions that I can't actually say I've made that particular recipe. (I'll substitute ground turkey for ground beef, green pepper for red pepper, yellow onion for green onion, cilantro for parsley, leave out garlic....). 

 

So I realized that last time I made the recipe above, I added in ricotta or bechamel or something to make it more lasagna-like, which it isn't at all (and I'm sure I've just made some Italian cook gasp), so I decided to follow the recipe exactly, and give it a chance.

I probably could have done the preparation a lot faster with a mandolin, but I don't own one. So compare the photo above with my result below: 

If you read the recipe, you'll notice that it's no more than carrots, zucchini, and potato with some salt and pepper, steamed. Plain steamed vegetables - especially potatoes - usually aren't my thing, which is probably why I added the extra stuff last time. However I was pleasantly surprised: it tasted great, though the pesto on top adds a lot!

Here's the next thing I'm going to make: 

 

And maybe the risotto recipe below. I can't picture how strawberry-Chardonnay risotto would taste, but it certainly sounds interesting.

 
  

If you're in Italy and want to look for these cookbooks, which evidently finished their last print run in April 2009, the photo below shows you the covers of all four. As you can see, my copies are heavily bookmarked! They were sold at Autogrill and Ciao! restaurants.

 

If you want to make any of the recipes featured in this post, click on the photo. I've purposely used large images so you should be able to read the text, which is pretty easy Italian. And let me know how it turned out!

Autogrill photo by Slimmer Jimmer. All other photos by Madeline

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The Baptistery doors in Florence: So what?

Asking yourself "So what?" or "what's the big deal?" is a great starting point when looking at any famous work of art in Italy. Yes, it's probably aesthetically impressive, but it may be equally significant because of its historical context. So it's worth understanding, really, why the work became famous. Taking the Baptistery doors in Florence as an example...

 
 

Artist Giorgio Vasari described Ghiberti's famous doors (photo above) as "undeniably perfect in every way, and must rank as the finest masterpiece ever created". You can certainly look at them and appreciate the skill and workmanship involved, but why are the "gates of Paradise" more worthy of your attention than say, the other two sets of doors on the Baptistery or the mosaic ceiling inside, or the famous dome of Florence's main cathedral, or umpteen other incredible works of art within spitting distance? The short answer is that it's because these doors were among the art that helped spark the Renaissance.

The larger context

The slightly longer explanation is that the (early) Renaissance started in Florence right around 1400, when the city was still rebuilding after the devastating Plague half a century earlier. Florence had no king or prince or duke, and was essentially run by the people. Strong families, one of whom was the Medici family, fought for control. The Medici had more money than they could spend, and were intent on glorifying the city, so it was a fantastic time to be an artist in Florence. Artists could find work, get paid, and even become famous while they were still alive, as Ghiberti did because of his doors. 

The story behind the Gates of Paradise

Ghiberti won a contest in 1401 (held by the Wool Merchants Guild, which was headed by the Medici family) to create a first set of doors for the Baptistery, which took him 21 years and made him a local celebrity. But the subject of this post is Ghiberti's masterpiece, the second set of doors he created for the Baptistery. He finished the project in 27 years, employing new and revolutionary techniques of the time, such as low relief and use of perspective. Michelangelo himself said the doors were "fit to be the gates of paradise". 

So sure, when you see the doors (replicas, today, but some panels of the original doors can be seen in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo), notice the bas relief technique, the use of perspective, and appreciate the detail in each panel. But remember that these doors, which once served as the main entrance to the Baptistery, where all Florentine Catholics including Dante and the Medicis were baptized until the 19th century, helped Florence kick off the incredible Renaissance period.

Photo by Albireo2006

 

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Lake Maggiore with kids

 

Boats, trains, cable cars, beaches, and castles: I wrote about all this and more, plus restaurant and accommodation suggestions over at ItaliaKids.com, so go read about what to do with kids on Italy's Lake Maggiore.

Photo of Cannero castle by Fiurix, used with permission

 

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Italian Notebook: Look Down

Welcome, Italian Notebook readers!

 

Not tripping over cobblestones is a good reason to look down when in Italy, but that's not the main reason I suggest keeping your eyes on the ground every now and then. Check out the short piece I wrote for Italian Notebook for more.

Photo by Degia

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Interview on the Eye on Italy Podcast

I was a guest on the Eye on Italy podcast (a podcast I love - subscribe!) this week, talking with the hosts, 3 fabulous Italy bloggers, about the different jobs I've had in Italy and how I found each one. I went into more detail about my corporate expatriate assignment in Milan, and talked about a few of my top picks for where to hike and bike in Italy. 

This episode also covers the Italian team in the World cup, each person discusses their Italian "pick of the week", and they talk about a couple Italian idiomatic expressions. 

So go listen, and enjoy!

http://www.eyeonitaly.com/podcast/episode-8-world-cup-fever/

Five impressive trompe l'oeil in Italy

Trompe l'oeil is a French phrase meaning to trick the eye, so artists have used this technique for centuries to create the illusion of space or depth. The seaside town of Camogli is famous for its trompe l'oeil windows, but there is a lot of significant trompe l'oeil art in Italy, so I've picked five of Italy's most famous. Take note, because you could easily walk by any of these and not realize your eye was being tricked.

These are especially good to add to an Italy itinerary when traveling with kids, because they're quicker to visit than a museum, and because kids love trying to figure out the trick.

 

1. Ceiling of Sant'Ignazio in Rome is full of trompe l'oeil done by Andrea Pozzo. Both the dome (photo below) and the ceiling (photo above) were created to give the eye the illusion of depth where there is very little. There are even marble markers on the floor of the church so the viewer knows exactly where to stand for the best perspective. 

 
 

2. Palazzo Spada, Rome This trompe l'oeil sculpture was done by Francesco Borromini. The floor is actually inclined, and the columns decrease in size, making the distance between the viewer and the sculpture seem 37 meters (121 feet) long when in reality the distance is just 8 meters (26 feet). The statue seems life-sized to the eye, but it's only 60 cm (23 inches) tall. 

3. Villa Farnesina in Rome's Trastevere neighborhood is famous for its art, including some by Raphael. But it also houses a well-known trompe l'oeil done by artist Baldassare Peruzzi: standing in the correct spot, you'll see a window with pillars at the end of the room. Move a few inches away and you'll change the perspective and realize it's not a window at all, but a painting. 

4. Mantua's Ducal Palace houses a trompe l'oeil oculus done by Andrea Mantegna, in the Camera degli Sposi (Bridal Chamber).

 

5. House of the Vetti in Pompeii has three trompe l'oeil windows.

Any I've missed?

Church of San Ignacio dome from Wikimedia commons; ceiling by Xuvira; Palazzo Spada photo by Anthony Majanlahti; Villa Farnesina by @@@@@; Mantegna in Mantua by Kilo'; Photo of Pompeii by Callicrates2003. 

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Pasta heads in Naples

I love these photos of pasta heads taken in Naples and have wanted to include them in Delicious Baby's photo Friday for a while!

The card next to the second photo is written in Neapolitan dialect: 

O Maccarone mio

Nisciuno o' tene!

O' mengo tuosto

e tuosto se mantene. 

I don't know Neapolitan dialect but I'm thinking it translates into Italian along the lines of: 

Il mio maccarone

nessuno lo tiene (nessuno ce l'ha)

Lo metto duro e duro mantiene

This would be quite the double entendre, so before I write the English translation and embarrass myself, maybe there's a Napoletano out there who can straighten me out?

Photos by Sanjay