Italy Beyond the Obvious

5 Reasons You'll Want to Kiss (in) Perugia

I started this post almost a year ago, and after several attempts to capture the essence of Perugia, I left the post in draft status, daunted. It didn't make it any easier when National Geographic declared it "The Worlds Sexiest Small City" in its November/December 2008 issue. Take II.

Whether you're visiting Italy for art, architecture, atmosphere, food and wine, beautiful countryside - or all of the above - you'll find what you're looking for in the romantic walled hilltown of Perugia. Here are five reasons you'll want to kiss (in) Perugia.

Architecture from Italy Tourism brochures

The Piazza IV Novembre (photo above), with its gorgeous fountain and surrounding buildings looks like it belongs on a poster attracting visitors to Italy, doesn't it! Other must-sees on the architecture itinerary include the Duomo, or main church, the Oratorio di San Bernardino, and the Rocca Paolina or Fortress. 

Italian Walled Hilltown (can-I-bottle-this?) Atmosphere 

Perugia emanates atmosphere, so you can't miss it. But the best place to experience it is during the daily evening passeggiata (seen in the photo of Piazza IV Novembre above) on the pedestrian street of Corso Vannucci. It's not uncommon to do the circuit over and over again so don't be surprised if you keep seeing the same people. Another great place for atmosphere is at the fountain around midnight, when the students gather.

 

Food (mostly chocolate)

Perugia has great cheese, pasta, olive oil, pine nuts, and salami, but it's most famous for chocolate: Baci, or kisses (photo above), made with hazelnuts and milk chocolate, then wrapped with love notes written in 4 languages. Read the scandalous love story about the origin of wrapping a note around each chocolate. 

Perugia hosts a free chocolate festival every year in October which attracts thousands of visitors. This year on October 18th, a few Italian artists will get to sculpt an 1100 kg block of chocolate as they choose. Note: if you're not particularly interested in the chocolate festival, avoid Perugia while it's on because it takes over the city.

Wine

Umbria is wine country, so visit a vineyard or two or at least sample some of the local wine in an enoteca. We have great memories of Enoteca la Tana dell'Orso (Via Rochi Ulisse 32), which is about a 5 minute walk from the Piazza IV Novembre. If you go, visit the Enoteca pub in the cellar, and make sure to ask about their salumi, and get recommendations on cheese and marmelade pairings.

Art: Perugino and Raphael

Two of Italy's most famous artists come from Perugia: Raphael and Perugino, born Pietro Vannucci. Visit the Collegio del Cambio inside the Palazzo dei Priori to see some of Perugino's most famous frescoes. If you love art (or like art, and it's raining) the Umbrian National Gallery is also worth a visit. One of the most famous frescoes by Perugino and Raphael is in the Church of San Severo.

Getting There and Getting Around

Take the train to Perugia, then take either escalators up the hill or the minimetro' people-mover. If you drive, park in the lot in Piazza Partigiani. However, if you're considering driving in the city, know that Perugia has a Zona Traffico Limitato, a limited traffic boundary that if crossed could result in an automatic fine. Once you've reached the historic center, explore Perugia on foot, though remember it's on a hill, so wear comfortable shoes.

More Info

• For opening and closing times of stores, hours of operation of escalators and elevators, and more information on traffic rules in the historic center, click here.
  
• Umbria Jazz Festival in July: www.umbriajazz.com.
• Stay awhile and learn Italian at the Universita' Per Stranieri, which has many classes for foreign students.
• Visit the Umbrian archaeological museum to see Etruscan and Roman artifacts. 

Photo of Piazza IV Novembre from www.istockphoto.com; Photo of Perugia by Sanjay; Photo of Baci chocolate by *Monira*

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Sicily Podcast

Listen to my 30-minute podcast about Sicily. I was interviewed by Chris Christensen of The Amateur Traveler. Download it (25 MB) here or stream it below:

 

 

Photo of me in Taormina by Sanjay

Attention to Detail: What's Odd About this Photo?

I've written in the past that paying attention to detail in Italy adds depth to any trip. Here's an amusing example from the town of Gubbio in Umbria. A traveler walking by quickly may notice that the ceramics look a little different from those in other parts of Italy. But the traveler who spends more time looking will notice something unexpected. Do you see what?  

See more fun travel photos on Delicious Baby's Photo Friday.

Photo by Sanjay

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more

The 5 Best Things to Do in Italy, Regardless of your Itinerary

It doesn't matter whether you're visiting Rome, Florence, and Venice or whether you're spending 2 weeks in the countryside; whether you're going to Italy in the height of summer or the middle of January; or whether you're museum-hopping or spending your entire visit on a bicycle. Use the checklist below on any trip to Italy for a more memorable experience. And if you've already been to Italy, how many of the items below can you check off?

1) Make time for the locals. When the taxi driver, barista, or other native Italian you meet strikes up a conversation, make time to chat. If they offer you a limoncello and ask how you're enjoying Italy, accept the drink, and tell them all the things you love about their country. A language barrier isn't an excuse - many Italians speak English and look for opportunties to practice. Of course, use your common sense: I wouldn't strike up a conversation on the street with someone who whistled or yelled "ciao, bella" at me.

2) Sit and observe.  Find a square, or piazza, the less touristy the better, and look around. What are people wearing? What shopping bags are they carrying? If you see families, how many kids are there on average, and who are their caregivers? What are the differences between people-watching in your hometown and here (fewer tattoos, fewer flip-flops, more crackberries?). If it's Sunday afternoon, why are people walking around with radios attached to their ears? (hint: soccer game). This is also a great place to pay attention to details around you, like the pattern of the cobblestones, the roofs of buildings, the lamp posts. 

Tip: If you can get a piece of paper and a pencil from the hotel, try to draw the scene. It doesn't matter if you think you can draw, and anyway you can throw it out when you're done. But the act of trying to draw it will make you observe the detail of what's in front of you more closely.

3) Focus on hand gestures and corresponding facial expressions. How many unique hand gestures can you count? If you want to study up before you go, have a look at this video.

4) Notice which foods are in season during your trip, and how they change from region to region if you're traveling around Italy. To accomplish this, go to a few outdoor markets or the produce section of a grocery store, read restaurant specials, or ask servers. If you order foods in season or see foods you're not used to at the market (like the persimmon in the photo above, perhaps) don't forget to take a photo.

5) Watch people driving cars and scooters (while you're walking, looking out your hotel window, in a car, or on the train). How many of these 10 Italian driving habits can you spot? Drivers also communicate with each other using hand gestures, so this is a good way to do #3, above.

Why This is Worth Your Time

Italy is one of the world's hottest tourist destinations, and you may feel at times that you're being herded through famous places like cattle. But pay attention to the items above, and you'll notice things that most tourists miss when their nose is in a guidebook or because they're rushing to the next itinerary stop. Plus it will enhance those "cattle" activities, put things into context, and give you many opportunities to connect with Italy in a meaningful way.

Photo of man by torremountain

Photo of plump persimmons by Kanko

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more

The Best of Palermo, Sicily

Sicily has been inhabited by the Greeks, Romans, Saracens, Normans, Spanish, and of course, modern-day Italians - and the evidence is everywhere. The bustling city of Palermo, on the island's northwest coast, has a gritty feel, but a vibrant atmosphere, incredible art and architecture, and fresh, exotic food. 

If you've been to Naples and liked its authentically Italian feel and edginess, then you'll love Palermo. If you prefer a more tourist-friendly, organized city, then consider staying in the seaside town of Cefalu' and visiting Palermo on a day trip. Either way, it's worth getting to know Palermo. 

Two Markets

Visit the markets of Vucciria or Ballaro' and gape at all the types of fresh fish, the abundant fruit and vegetables, or just people-watch as the Sicilians point, yell, and do their daily shopping. Take note: whatever is abundant and looks fresh and plump is what you should try to have for lunch.

Speaking of lunch, keep your eye out for hole-in-the-wall restaurants near the market or the wharf. If you find something sparsely decorated, with a few plastic tables, no menu, no prices listed, and 1 cook - usually an older woman - you've hit the jackpot. The food will be inexpensive, fresh, and very authentically Sicilian.

Two Cultural Activities

See a puppet show. Most likely it will be the classic Italian tale of Rinaldo from Lodovico Ariosto's Orlando Furioso. The show won't be in English, so familiarize yourself with the plot beforehand. But don't worry about the language barrier: the energy and costumes of the puppets, the puppetteers' voices, and the scene will keep you entranced. If you really love puppets, or if you're traveling with kids, go see the International Puppet Museum, too

See an opera at the world-renowned Teatro Massimo, featured in the movie The Godfather.

Two Sicilian Desserts and More Food to Try

Don't skip dessert - after all, cannoli and the sweet shaved ice, granita (photo above) are originally Sicilian. In addition to luscious fruits and vegetables, look for African and Spanish influences in food such as couscous and use of cinnamon. Also eat: pistachios, almonds (marzipan), oranges, olives, sardines, swordfish, and chickpeas (or things made of chickpea flour).

Two Spots for Mosaics

Visit the Capella Palatina (photo below) in the Palazzo dei Normanni, with mosaics rivaling those of Ravenna and Constantinople. Yes, that entire photo is of mosaics. Compare them to more mosaics in the gorgeous Duomo of Monreale, which is about a half an hour away. If it works for your Sicily itinerary, go see the mosaics of African animals and bikini-clad women in the Villa del Casale in Piazza Armerina, only a few hours away.

 

Two Churches to Prioritize

Palermo has hundreds of churches, but make sure to see the Duomo or main church, and the red-domed San Giovanni degli Eremiti (see photo above), which is unlike any other church in Italy. Built in the 6th century and converted into a mosque after the Islamic conquest of Sicily, it was returned to the Christians after the Norman domination in the 12th century.  

Two Escapes to Nature

When you're all churched-out, or are tired of the big-city chaos and traffic, don't forget that the ocean is never far away. Take a walk along the beach in Palermo or at nearby Mondello (photo above), or go for a hike on Monte Pellegrino, also in the photo above, for a change of scenery. 

Getting There & Getting Around

Options abound: Fly into Palermo's international airport, or take the overnight boat from Naples. Trains are great for getting between the coastal cities, including Palermo, but in general are not as efficient in Sicily as in the rest of Italy, so don't forget to check bus schedules as well. Buses are a great option if you're arriving in Palermo from the interior of the island, though they don't necessarily run according to schedule, so factor in flex time when planning to take a bus. If you're comfortable driving in Italy, then renting a car to get around Sicily is a good option, but I highly recommend not driving in the city of Palermo. To get around the city, walk, use city buses, or take taxis, and always agree on the fare before getting in.

Photo of San Giovanni degli Eremiti church by Sanjay; Photo of blood orange granita by Nyaa_birdies_perch; Photo of the mosaics in the Capella Palatina by Sanjay; Photo of Mondello and Monte Pellegrino by fachxx00

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more

What to Buy in Sicily

If you're going to Sicily and want to bring home something locally made and truly unique, consider any of the following four items. I have purchased 3 of the 4, and I bet you can guess which ones.

1) Sicilian ceramics are different from those of Sardinia, Tuscany, and Umbria, and in general they are less expensive. I love my pizza plates and lemon platter (photos above & below) from the island of Lipari, but the Caltagirone style is probably Sicily's most famous. If you don't want to carry your purchases in your luggage for the rest of your trip, have them shipped. The ceramics stores are accustomed to shipping overseas.

 

2) Marzipan fruit, or martorana (photo below) makes a great gift, either to bring home or as an Italian hostess gift should you need one. Pair a small basket of martorana with a dessert wine such as Moscato. Marzipan is easier to carry than ceramics, (though still not as easy as the best Italian souvenir, ever) and is tasty to boot.

3) Puppets are part of the Sicilian storytelling tradition. See a puppet show and buy one of the traditional characters - either an inexpensive one in the market, or a nicer one at one of the specialist puppet stores in Palermo.

4) And finally, who doesn't need a Sicilian painted cart? Allegedly one of Sicily's dying artisanal traditions, these usually come out only during parades and celebrations (see photo), but if you really want one, a few thousand Euros will make it yours. Buy a miniature one for less than €100 or if you're serious, go to Aci Sant'Antonio near Catania and visit the master, Domenico di Mauro (website in Italian). Not only is he still busy painting carts at age 94, he has orders well into 2010. Serious shoppers needn't worry: he has trained a few apprentices.

Photos of ceramics by Madeline

Photo of marzipan fruits by slushpup

Photo of marionette by Fazen

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more

An Easy and Scenic Bike Ride from Italy to Austria

You'd never guess from looking at the photo below that any cycling path in the Dolomite mountains could be easy. But the paved route from San Candido, in the Sud Tyrol region of Italy, to Lienz, Austria, is 42km / 26mi of gentle downhill. It's ideal for kids, rollerbladers, or anyone who wants to focus on the scenery and breathe fresh air - and maybe not get much exercise.

San Candido, Italy - Lienz, Austria

You'll need about half a day for the whole trip, after you get to San Candido. If you need to, rent a bike in San Candido, then just follow the well-marked, well-maintained path. Take a break at one of the many playgrounds or small towns en route, or continue to the very pretty town of Lienz. Allow some time to explore the town before loading your bike on the train back to San Candido. 

Useful To Know...

• The path is busiest on Sundays.   

• Not recommended to ride in reverse because most of the bike traffic is heading the other direction. You'd be dodging a lot of people, some pedaling as fast as possible and assuming nobody's coming in the opposite direction.

• Here's a map of the route.

  

The Trains

• San Candido is 2 hours by train from Bolzano, 3 hours from Trento, or 5 hours from Venice. 

• Trains back to San Candido run about once an hour.

• If you are traveling in a group of 4 people or more, it's less expensive to buy a group pass (person + bike) on the train from Lienz to San Candido.

  

 

What's Nearby?

Add this bike ride to a week of hiking in the Dolomites out of Ortisei. Or, if you're comfortable driving in Italy, add it to an itinerary around the Veneto countryside. Or add another couple days to the Italy Beyond the Obvious sample itinerary from Milan to Venice, but instead of heading down to Venice on Day 2, drive up to San Candido.

Photo of Monte Baranci, Dolomites, at sunrise by Pier/?

Photo of scenery along the bike path by Nico.P

Photo of the bike train by Guido Allibrante

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more

The Best Italian Souvenir, Ever

Bottles of Limoncello, pottery from Tuscany, or Venetian glass may be the best gifts to bring back from Italy, but they are heavy, breakable, and inconvenient to travel with. So what do you buy for all those friends who were thrilled with a set of cloth napkins from the market after your last trip?

When a keychain and a shot glass don't cut it, here is the easiest to carry, least breakable, most authentically Italian, and inexpensive souvenir: the gnocchi board. It will set you back only a few Euros, packs well, and probably weighs about as much as your travel shampoo. Make it more fancy by pairing it with a recipe, printed out when you get home.

Instructions for use: with your thumb, push each raw gnoccho very gently on the board for about half a roll until it curls over a little to make a shell shape, like in the photo above. And voila! Perfect gnocchi ridges. The recipe books say to use a fork to make the ridges, and of course, you could, because not everybody is privileged enough to have an actual gnocchi board.

Added bonus of this gift: your friends will need to invite you over to inspect and taste their creations, of course. Buon appetito!

Please comment with great Italian souvenirs you have given or received, too!

Photo of gnocchi board by Madeline

Photos of gnocchi by From Argentina with Love

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more

The World's Most Famous Lie Detector

Nestled in a church portico in the center of Rome, a tourist could easily walk by the Mouth of Truth, or Bocca della Verita'. You may recognize the face below from the 1953 film Roman Holiday, but if not, here are the instructions: 1) place hand in the face's open mouth;  2) (if you dare) tell a lie; 3) Check to see whether you still have your hand.

A Brief History

The Bocca has lived at the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin (photo below) since the 17th century, and originates from the 1st century. For the intermediate 16 centuries it could have been a sewer cover or part of a fountain, though scholars do agree that the face is one of the gods. This author posits that it was actually used as the cover of a temple water collector and that the god is Oceanus.

A Visit

Open daily: 9 am - 1 pm; 3 pm - 6 pm 

Nearby Sights

When planning a visit to the Bocca della Verità, consider that the following sights, plotted on the map below for your planning convenience, are nearby and walkable (walking time from the Colosseum is about 15 minutes):

• The Colosseum
• The Forum
• The Circus Maximus  
• Marcello's Theatre  
• The Arch of Constantine
• The Capitoline Musuems  
• The Trastevere neighborhood

  

View Rome, near Bocca della Verità in a larger map 

Photo of Bocca della Verità by S. Lo
Photo of Santa Maria in Cosmedin with fountain by fspugna

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more

Best Local Hotspots in Turin

In a recent post I mentioned that I have a good friend from Turin. Not only is she smart, gorgeous, and athletic (a Ph.D in chemistry and a SCUBA instructor), she is out on the town often, and knows the best places to go out. So on my request, she and another Torinese friend sat down to put together a list of the best local hotspots in Turin, right now. See the map at the bottom for locations of all the hotspots.

Best Aperitivo

Turin, Milan, and Parma are famous for their before-dinner-drink-with-unlimited-free-food aka aperitivo tradition. Go to Zonk to sip a cocktail, fill your plate from the free buffet, and people-watch before dinner. Tip: aperitivo bars are perfect when you're jet-lagged and hungry, and not sure you can make it until the restaurants open at 7.30 pm.

Best Reasonably-Priced Restaurant

There are lots of options for eating without breaking the bank (as long as you don't do the currency conversion). Try pizza, sandwiches in a café, buying groceries at the supermarket and having a picnic, or a kebab (see below). Or try the restaurant Quattro Soldi, which also has pizza, in Corso Castelfidardo, 7. Make a reservation. Phone 011.5621290

Best Pub

Have a beer and hang out with friends at Six Nations Pub, on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, number 28.

Best Kebab

Don't be fooled by spartan surroundings: great kebabs (kebaps in Italian) are found at Damir, who on his website promises "fresh local meat prepared by a Turk".

Best Chocolate Café

Go to Guido Gobino (web site is only in Italian and Japanese, interestingly) for a hot chocolate, or to sample some of the famous locally-made gianduiotto chocolate. Ask for suggestions on liqueur pairings, if you're there for dessert. Tied for first place in this category, and with a great historic atmosphere, is Baratti & Milano.

Best Unique Dining Experience

If your visit coincides with the monthly tram dinner (link in Italian), book it: you'll enjoy a 2-hour guided tram tour of the city while dining on local specialties and listening to live music.

Best Gelateria

Never leave an Italian city without sampling its gelato, and in Turin the place to go is Fiorio.

Best Pizzeria

Choosing a pizzeria in Italy is a serious task, and you don't want to go wrong. So head to Pizzeria Regina Margherita in Via del Carmine, 2. Phone 011.4310287. Equally great is Pizzeria Cristina on Corso Palermo 101. Phone 011.2481706. Always try to make reservations.

Best places to go for a high-end Italian meal

This is a hard one, only because Turin has so many great restaurants. And really, if you just walk around the Quadrilatero Romano neighborhood, you can't go wrong. I have my personal favorite which is not as high-end as the following suggestions. To wow your guests, or just to experience an unforgettable meal, go to Del Cambio, one of the most famous restaurants in Turin. The building is on the country's official list of Historic Places, and the food is worth it if budget allows. For something with a more rustic atmosphere, the Tre Galline specializes in local food and has had good reviews for three centuries.

If you're into gastronomic eclecticism, it's worth heading to the town of Rivoli, just outside of Turin, to dine at the Michelin-starred Combal.Zero. With incredible food, and views to match, this restaurant scores consistently high in reviews.

Best Foreign Restaurant

If you'd like a break from Italian food, but are looking for something higher-end than a kebab, Wasabi is an excellent Japanese restaurant, particularly known for its sushi and sashimi. Address: Corso Ferrucci 72, Phone 011.4473812

Best Discoteca

That would be Cacao, open every night of the week except Mondays. Tied in first place for hip places to go dancing is also Banus. There's no point arriving before midnight.

View Hotspots in Turin, Italy in a larger map

If Milan is on your itinerary, check out my list of Local Hotspots in Milan.

Photo of dancing by Sabrina Campagna; Photo of hot chocolate by Heliosphan; Photo of pizza by Madeline

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip: have a look at the sample itinerary, or learn more