Italy Beyond the Obvious

The Truly Cool Trulli Dwellings of Alberobello

Fabulous for photography, but not so much for an off-the-beaten-track experience, the UNESCO World Heritage Site and town of Alberobello is famous for its white-washed, conical-roofed trulli dwellings. 

The History of the Trulli

Much about the origins of the trulli remains a mystery, but a few things are known: the trulli were originally peasant houses, built without mortar by creating a cone shape using pieces of limestone found in nearby fields. The cone was originally built directly on the ground, (not sitting atop four walls as it does today), and is capped still today with a ball and then a pinnacle, the former being analagous to the keystone of an arch: pull it out and the whole structure falls apart. 

For this reason, and because no mortar was used, one theory about the origins of the trulli is that they were built to avoid paying taxes: anyone who built on the king's land in the middle ages owed taxes to the king. In theory, the trulli could be quickly dismantled for the tax collector's visit, and then rebuilt again afterwards (existing trulli are held together with mortar, so don't worry about someone accidentally pulling the house down on your head). The trulli around today are just 500 years old, which could support the theory that they were pulled down and rebuilt. 

Trulli Basics

Many trulli have decorative symbols painted on their roofs, tied to pre-Christian, solar, Jewish, or pagan cults. Each trulli roof marks just one room: the layout includes a living room, dining room, kitchen, and sleeping nooks. When a family wanted to expand, they would build a second trullo next to the first, and punch a hole in the walls to connect the two. Even today, trulli are heated by only a central stove, however due to their extremely thick walls, they stay naturally cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The roofs are built with channels, so rainwater is collected in underground tanks. 

Tourism in Alberobello

You won't need directions once you get to Alberobello; the tourist itinerary is well-marked. Many of the trulli have been turned into tourist shops, and if you visit one, there is some pressure to buy a souvenir of some sort. I've heard Alberobello described as both "over the top touristy", and "a photographer's paradise", so you decide whether it's worth it. 

Alberobello is the trulli capital, but if it's too touristy for you, trulli can also be found in the towns of Locorotondo, Fasano, Cisternino, Martina Franca, and Ceglie Messapica. If you would like to stay in the area, Martina Franca is a good less-touristy bet.

Getting There

Alberobello's train station is a 15-minute walk - with a couple short, steep hills - from the beginning of the main street. The trains to Alberobello are reliable, but can be slow (for example the train from Bari is 90 minutes, by car it's 60 minutes). If you're just doing a daytrip from Bari or Taranto, the train is convenient. But if Alberobello is just one stop on a Puglia itinerary, consider renting a car or taking the bus.

Photo of Trulli from www.istockphoto.com

Photo of trullo with laundry by alizzze

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The Island of Capraia

Formed by a volcanic eruption 9 million years ago, which produced the island's gorgeous red rock (see photo below), Capraia is referred to as the "wild island". It's a 2.5 hour boat ride from the mainland port in Livorno, and with only a couple ferries a day it's a little harder to get to than the other islands of the Tuscan Archipelago, but it's worth it.

A Short Summary of the Island's Exciting History

With a history dating back to 3000 BC, Capraia has been inhabited by the Phoenecians, Greeks, Etruscans and Romans. It has housed a community of monks, has been fortified against pirates, and has been a penal colony. 

What To See and Do

There's just 1 town on the island - enough to visit in comfort but still feel like you've gotten away from it all. The island offers great hiking and walking, bird-watching, beaches, sailing and scuba diving, and some scrumptious local food.  

Capraia is a great place to dive in Italy: call the Capraia Diving Service to take you out. Or take a boat trip to the French island of Corsica (which, because it's France, is not on my map of Italy below) aboard the Dragut catamaran. Walk on the mule path which crosses the island, or branch off it to explore the island on a series of smaller paths. Do the half-hour walk from the town to Cala della Zurletta, or the more difficult 3-hour hike up to Monte delle Penne to enjoy the view over Capraia with Corsica on the horizon. Capraia is also where migratory birds stop on their way from Europe to Africa.

Local Gastronomic Delights

While you're there, try the locally-made honey, blackberry liqueur, goat cheese, fig jam, and of course, seafood.

Best Time to Visit

For hiking, gorgeous flowers, and birdwatching, visit in the spring. For fun in the sun, go in the summer, when the island is buzzing with tourists. If your priority is seafood, the locals recommend visiting between September and November, which is also when the water is still warm from the summer, and many of the tourists have gone. One tip for an autumn visit: bring mosquito repellent.

 

Photo of Capraia staircase by Marco Annunziata; Photo of Capraia island by Ginepro Roberto; Photo of Cala Rossa, the red volcanic rock of Capraia from www.isoladicapraia.com

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Driving in Italy: 5 Easy Ways to Get a ZTL Fine and How to Avoid One

 

In 2008 in Florence - a city of 365,000 residents - almost 900,000 tickets were issued for traffic violations. Of those, more than half were given for driving unauthorized in an area of restricted access.

My post on Italian road signs included a brief description of the ZTL sign (photo above) but this subject deserves more attention. These signs mark the boundaries of an area with restricted access to cars, called Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL). 

Interpreting the Sign Above

The red circle means no cars allowed. The numbers underneath are the times of day, using the 24-hour clock. So the sign above means no entry between 8 am and 8 pm. The fine print says that cars with a pass can enter.

5 Reasons It's Easy to Get a ZTL Fine

1 - People often say they see other cars entering the ZTL therefore assume they can proceed. Not so. (See #2.)

 

2 - All cities do not have the same rules, so learning the rules for Pisa may not be useful for Florence or Milan. In some cities, non-residents cannot enter the ZTL, period. In many cities, any car can enter, but only with a pass. In Milan, access to the ZTL, and what kind of pass is needed depends on how environmentally friendly the car is. Don't worry, it's written on the signs - you just need to recognize and read them.

3 - Tickets are issued immediately and automatically, as soon as (and every time) the car crosses the ZTL boundary. There is no chance to explain to an actual person, "but officer, I didn't understand....". The ticket is sent to the address registered with the car, or for a car rental company, the ticket will be forwarded to the home address associated with the credit card (with an additional forwarding fine and a fine from the car rental company - more details below).  

4 - GPS systems do not know about ZTL zones, and will pick the shortest route, which may indeed include driving straight into a ZTL.   

5 - It's sometimes not possible to turn around in historical centers of Italian cities. By the time you see the sign, you may not be able to avoid getting a fine. Due to traffic, narrow or one-way streets (which are probably the reasons the zone is designated ZTL), it may be necessary to enter the Zona Traffico Limitato in order to leave it.  

What Could it Cost You? 

Fines are different depending on the city, but expect the traffic violation itself to be between about 50 and 80 Euros. If the car is rented, the rental car company will usually add an additional fine. So it's entirely possible that up to one year after returning from your Italian vacation, you receive a fine in the mail for 130 Euros. Read about all the gritty details of people who've been-there-done-that in this thread on TripAdvisor. And if you do get one, the best way to avoid additional penalties is to pay it before you leave Italy.

How To Avoid Getting A Fine

• Well, there's the obvious: don't drive in the historical center of Italian cities. Take the train. Or park your car and use the bus, the subway, the tram, or a taxi when going into the center.
• Reading this post already helps, since you should be able to recognize the sign and understand the 24-hour clock (where 18 is actually 6 pm, etc). 
• If you are planning on driving in the historic center of a city, make sure you have a map of the ZTL area (links to maps of Pisa and Florence ZTL zones below) so that you don't accidentally get caught in #5 above.
• If you are renting a car, it doesn't hurt to ask the car rental place whether there are ZTL areas in the city, and where to buy a pass. Note: regardless of what they tell you, you are still responsible for any fines.

One Last Note

ZTL is not a scam or aimed only at tourists. Getting a fine in this zone is the same as getting any other traffic fine.

Driving in Italy? 10 things you should know.

Some useful links:

Pisa: Map of Pisa ZTL zones; how to pay a ZTL ticket from Pisa. Florence: Map of Florence ZTL zones; Lots of information on ZTL in Florence. Milan: General info about Milan's Ecopass; Detailed info about Milan's Ecopass.

 

Photo of ZTL sign from Wikimedia, Photo of Milan traffic by Uberto

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Brisighella: A Medieval Gem in a Good Location

Pining For Italy After My Student Exchange Year

Back home in Canada after my AFS exchange to Italy (about, no - wait - it can't be! Over 15 years ago. Anyway.) I was finishing my first year of university and pining for anything Italian, when I got The Letter. "Come to Italy this summer", it said, "we'll send you a plane ticket, give you room and board and a small stipend in exchange for looking after our kids". A nanny job, yes, which I had done before. But in Italy. I was 19, and most of my friends were going to spend the summer painting houses. "Yes, yes, yes!", I wrote back.

I knew the family: they were friends of friends, and I had met them over a weekend during my exchange year. They knew I babysat and that I loved Italy: it was a great fit. And so, after my exams were over, off I went for the summer. To the tiny, tiny town of Brisighella.

My Home Away From Home

The family lived in a palazzo whose façade took up an entire side of the main square. Huge paintings of their ancestors, like ones I'd only seen in museums, hung in gilded frames on the walls lining the enormous main staircase; the flip-down pasta-making table in the kitchen was used on a regular basis for making spaghetti, gnocchi, and ravioli. One wing of the house was closed off, but on a rare visit I saw an old carriage that had belonged to someone in the family. In the garden behind the house was an authentic wood-burning brick pizza oven; and when I played tag with the boys, we zig-zagged around the artichoke patch and through the fruit trees. And it was the first time I ever heard the music of cicadas, an all-encompassing chirp on a hot, hot day, that sounded like it was coming from the sky. 

Main Sights of Brisighella

I was in Brisighella in July and August, the hottest months of the year. Nevertheless the kids and I frequently climbed the long staircase to the Torre dell'Orologio or clock tower (photo above is a view from the fortress),and took in the spectacular view over the town and countryside while resting with a drink of water. We played around the Rocca Manfrediana, or Manfredian fortress (photo), wandered through the raised, covered medieval street, Via Degli Asini, and admired the sanctuary of Monticino (photo). (At least I was admiring and enjoying - I'm not entirely sure about the 3- and 5-year olds. But I think they had fun.)

When the medieval summer festival started, I hardly knew what hit me: the usually quiet streets filled with performers dressed in robes, local spectators, and tourists. The older sister of the kids I was babysitting, who was my age, invited me out with her friends: we put charcoal on our faces, dressed up in rags, and explored the festival as a group of streghe, or witches.

Local Food

Brisighella is in the province of Emilia-Romagna, known in Italy as the "foodie" region. The area produces excellent olive oil, has local wine, and is also known for its cheese, pork, and Moretto artichokes. The local dish, spoja lorda, is basically an egg-rich pasta filled with cheese (we'd call it ravioli, but they don't), and is served in a chicken and beef broth. 

What Was That About a Good Location?

In addition to natural spring waters (read: spas), Friday evening markets in the summertime, concerts and medieval dinners, the town is in a convenient location: just a 10-minute train ride from the city of Faenza - famous for its ceramics - Brisighella is easily accessible from the mosaics of Ravenna, the great university town of Bologna, the beaches of Rimini, and not far from Parma, Florence, and Venice.

Click here for more details on festivals, concerts, what to do, where to stay and where to eat in Brisighella, or here for more details on its history.

Photo from www.istockphoto.com

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The Fragolino Controversy

I remember when I was first introduced to Fragolino. It was in Milan in 2002, at an Irish bar near our apartment. My husband and I ordered a bottle of the house-made Fragolino wine on a friend's recommendation, and it was one of the yummiest wines I have ever tasted. 

A perfect summer wine, it was light, not too sweet, and as you would expect, tasted of strawberries. The wine isn't actually made with any strawberries, but entirely from grapes - and that seems to be the problem (more on that later).

I kept my eye out for it for years after that, and discovered, as anticipation became disappointment, that there are a few different wines that call themselves Fragolino. There's a sweet, syrupy Fragolino liqueur that is easy to find but is nowhere close to what I had tasted. There's a sparkling, sweet, chemically flavored Fragolino that probably works fine as a dessert wine, or maybe an aperitivo, but again: not even close to what I was looking for. 

On the internet, I found evidence of people who had had a similar experience to mine. They had tasted the wine, wanted more, and were actively searching for it: people posted their email addresses and contact information in discussion forums, describing their experience and asking for any information about where to find this elusive wine - with no luck.

All this super-sleuthing is necessary because it is actually illegal to sell this wine in the EU. It's not illegal to make it, so if you find a kind farmer who lets you sample some, feel free. But first, be aware of why it's banned:

The Official Story

The Italian government says that the grape used to make Fragolino, the Uva Americana (also known as the Isabella grape), is banned because it's difficult to control methanol levels during wine production. Given that methanol can make you go blind, that sounds like a pretty good reason to me. But some people suggest this is not the real reason behind the ban.

What the Wine Blogs Say

A few winemakers say that the methanol excuse is urban legend. They speculate that since the grape is an American grape and not authentically Italian, the Italian authorities don't want it contaminating their precious, authentically Italian soil. That seems to me like an unlikely reason for not only Italy, but the whole EU, to ban the grape - but it's not that far off another explanation.

What the Scientists Say

The author of this blog post points out that the Isabella grape is thought to have been responsible for bringing the phylloxera plague to Europe in the late 19th century. The tiny Phylloxera insects feast on grape vines, cutting off the flow of nutrients and water to the plants. They were first noticed in France but spread quickly, and devastated most of the wine growing industry in Europe in the late 1800's. 

Still Interested in Tasting it?

Well sale of this wine is banned in the EU but Switzerland is conveniently not in the EU and is easy to get to from Italy. So in theory you should be able to nip up to Switzerland's Canton Ticino and try this fabulous wine yourself. Or you may meet a nice Italian farmer (historically, in the Veneto or outside of Naples) who might let you have a taste.

Since the grape is not banned in the US, I went to talk to the experts at Sam's Wine here in Chicago. I asked one of the buyers about the Isabella grape. "Definitely not produced in any of the major wine regions of the US, unless by some small local farmer", he said. He happened to be talking to some Napa Valley, CA winemakers, who overheard my question. "Never heard of it", they said. When I told them about the phylloxera plague, their eyes widened. "You'll never see anyone take that grape on. Winemakers wouldn't touch that one with a 10-foot pole".

Sigh. I guess I'll have to find a friendly farmer next time I'm in the Veneto. But I'll let him take the first sip.

Corkscrew photo by Kyle May

Strawberries photo by *clairity*

Beyond the Balcony: Top 10 In & Around Verona

As the 4th most popular tourist destination in Italy, Juliet's balcony attracts many people to the city of Verona. But stay a week or so, (gasp!) unpack, and get to know more of what Verona and its surrounding region have to offer. 

In Verona

1 -  See an outdoor opera at the Roman amphitheater(photo below), a guaranteed once-in-a-lifetime experience.

2 -  Yes, go look at the darn balcony, rub the statue of Juliet, and proclaim your love on the graffiti wall (try to ignore all the bandaids and gum). For a mere 1000 Euros you can also get married on Juliet's balcony.

3 -  Walk across one of Italy's best bridges, the historic Scaligero bridge which had the longest span in the world at the time it was built.

Day trips by train

4 -  Less than a 30 minute train ride from Verona, the small city of Vicenza is home to Palladio's Villa Rotunda and the impressive Teatro Olimpico.

5 -  The gorgeous city of Padua (Padova in Italian) is less than an hour away by train, and is often overlooked because nearby Venice gets all the attention. It's worth spending a day: just soak up the university-town atmosphere, and don't miss the Scrovegni chapel. Padova is one of my favorite cities in Italy.

6 -  Take the train an hour north into the mountains to visit the lesser-known city of Trento (photo below).

Day trips by car

7 -  Visit Lake Garda for the beaches or the Gardaland amusement park, ideal if you're traveling with kids. Stop for a spa treatment in the pretty town Sirmione and admire its castle.

8 -  Spend a day wine-tasting: you're in red wine (Valpolicella and Amarone) country here, and very close to where the white sparkling Prosecco is produced.

9 - Explore the countryside of the Veneto, including the towns of Bassano del Grappa and Asolo. If you like sculpture or the sculptor Antonio Canova in particular, visit the Gipsoteca Canoviana.

10 - Take the train south to explore the city of Mantua (Mantova in Italian), one of Italy's prettiest cities, and voted the "most livable" city in Italy in 2005 by the country's eco-movement the Legambiente. The photo below is of the Piazza Sordello, Mantova's main square.

The Italy Beyond the Obvious sample itinerary covers 1, 2, 3, 4, 8, and 9 above, plus a stop in Pavia. Nights are spent in Milan, Verona, Asolo and finally Venice. Feel free to use the itinerary if it suits your travel interests and pace.

Photos of Verona's clock tower and arena by Sanjay

Photo of Trento by amerune

Photo of Piazza Sordello in Mantova from Wikipedia

Driving in Italy: One Strategy and Six Road Signs You Should Know

Italian road signs can seem confusing.

But if you understand them, they do actually make sense. The sign above, tutte le direzioni (translated as "all directions") actually means, turn right to access all major roads. Most likely there will be another intersection with more signs, so you can branch out from there.

Apply the strategy below and quiz yourself on six road signs, and save yourself stress and time while driving in Italy.

Strategy: Know Your Colors

While navigating, always know what color road sign you're looking for. You'll inevitably arrive at an intersection posted with many signs, like in the photo above, and have a second or so to decide which way to turn. If you know you're only looking for a green sign, you'll see it much more quickly.

Blue signs indicate main roads that are not autostrada (highways). If you don't want to take the autostrada to your destination but don't want to be driving on dirt roads either, follow the blue roads. They are often more scenic and sometimes faster than the green roads. And they're free. 

Green signs indicate the autostrada, which is a toll road. Note: the autostrada may not actually be very close to the sign, but if you continue to follow the green signs, you will eventually hit it.

Brown, yellow, and white signs are also used, though the color-to-function rules are not completely reliable. Restaurants are yellow or white. Churches, places of architectural interest, scenic drives, and tourist destinations (sometimes the tourist office) are usually brown. Everything else is white. Again, note: I have followed signs for restaurants into the hills for many, many miles before actually arriving. The sign does not necessarily mean that the restaurant or attraction is nearby.

So, apply your new knowledge: even though the Napoli/Salerno photo below is from a website that translates as "jokes" (even Italians poke fun at their road signs), it has not been photoshopped. It makes more sense now, doesn't it?

Six Road Signs you Should Know 

I picked these six because I think they are important, and are also not easy to figure out if you've never seen them before.

1. Right of Way Sign / End of Right of Way Sign. This sign means you are on a road with the right of way. Cars turning in from the left or right must yield to you. When you see the black line through the same sign, you no longer have the right of way and you must yield to other traffic coming in from the right or left.

2. Divieto Fermata, or Absolutely No Stopping. The first sign means no stopping, and the second one means no parking/tow zone (so really, no stopping either).

3. City center. Follow the bullseye sign if you're looking for the center of the city. Very useful when driving to a city with more than one exit off the autostrada, and also helps locate the historic center within the city limits.

4. Not allowed. The first sign just means no entry with a car. Often there are times of day posted underneath, which means no entry just during those times. However there are many variations of this sign that describe things you are not allowed to do: I've included no passing, and no bicycles, but there are many more.

5. Okay, You're Allowed Now. The first sign below means "it's okay to drive on this road now". The second means "end of no passing zone".

 

6. Traffic circle / Roundabout: if you already (drive on the right side of the road and) know how to navigate a roundabout or traffic circle, then no worries: Italian roundabouts are the same. But if you are not familiar with them, learn entry and exit rules before you accidentally have to navigate multiple lanes of traffic, all driving in a circle, on the fly.

 

Happy driving!

P.S. If you didn't know any of the signs above and would like to study up on more Italian roadsigns, here's a more comprehensive list.

 

Photo of road signs by Anastassiya L

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Only Have Four Days to See Italy? Just Do Siena.

"I only have 4 days in Italy, so I thought I would do a day in Venice, a day in Florence and 2 days in Rome, what do you think?"

I get this question, (or variations on it) regularly. I always ask, "why Italy?", and a recent response inspired today's post: "Well", the future traveler explained, "I know Italy has amazing museums, historic churches and squares, small atmospheric medieval streets, and a beautiful countryside with charming towns. And I love food and wine. Oh, and I'm learning some Italian so I thought I could practice."

Here's my advice: if you have limited time, pick a spot and see it properly. In Italy, you also want time to pay attention to detail, wander, and people-watch, maybe while sitting in a café in a piazza. 

Stay in an agriturismo in Siena (like San Fabiano; or search for others on this website), and spend 2 days in the town itself plus 2 days exploring the Tuscan countryside. 

Click on the link below to read about how to spend your 4 days.

Italian Ceramics: Sardinia

Do a google search for Italian Ceramics, and you'll get examples from Faenza and Deruta: the former is a great place to visit a ceramics museum; the latter is fabulous for serious purchases. 

But compared to the Italian peninsula, and even to the island of Sicily, Sardinia's ceramics stand out. They aren't as colorful - artists use natural colors like greens, browns, ochres and earth tones; and they are designed with fish, chicken, birds, sheep, cows, and vegetable motifs. 

Yet Sardinia has had a ceramics tradition for hundreds of years. So if you decide to experience the beaches, food, or culture of this Italian island, consider paying a visit to Oristano or Assemini, ceramics centers outside Cagliari (dot on map below).

Photo of Sardinian ceramics by Madeline

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10 Tips on Avoiding Crowds in Venice

Of course the main sights of Venice are worth visiting. Go visit them along with everybody else. But use the tips and strategies below to spend less time in lines and fighting crowds, even in high season.

Tip #1:  Allocate a couple hours to get lost: follow your nose down the narrow streets and over small bridges. This is where you will find true Venetian atmosphere and mingle with the locals. 

Tip #2:  For views over Venice without climbing the hot, narrow stairs of the Campanile with the crowds: book a guided visit for the Clock Tower (Torre Dell'Orologio), or go up the tower at San Giorgio, the big church on its own island directly across from St. Mark's. 

Compare the views: click here to see a photo of the view from San Giorgio; here for a view from the Campanile, and here for a view from the clock tower.

Tip #3:  If you must go on a gondola ride, go at dusk. You'll see Venice at a magical time of day, after many of the tourists have left, when the water traffic has calmed down, and the city's lights start to twinkle. 

Tip #4:  Avoid standing in line at the Doge's Palace for hours under the hot sun: make online reservations for the Secret Itineraries tour, and skip the queue.

Tip #5:  Unless you love glass, don't get off the boat at Murano. Instead, spend a few hours exploring the fabulous island of Burano.

  
Tip #6:   Book your hotel in Venice, not in Mestre or somewhere else outside of the city. Venice is magical in the evening: more peaceful, more romantic, calmer and less crowded. Don't miss the city's evening atmosphere.

Tip #7:  Visit the Rialto Market first thing in the morning, when the fruits and vegetables and fish are displayed at their finest and the locals are buzzing with energy.

Tip #8:  Go inside churches you stumble upon no matter how bland the facade. There's a pretty good chance you'll see some incredible works of art inside, and it likely won't be crowded inside. The facade of San Sebastiano, for example doesn't look like much, but this is a jewel of a church with frescoes by Veronese.

Tip #9:  Close to the beginning of your visit if possible, take a vaporetto ride down the entire Grand Canal. Get on at Piazzale Roma or the train station and go all the way to St. Mark's square. Sit back and enjoy a good overall view of the city's architecture and general layout before you get caught up in the narrow maze of streets and the tourist shuffle. 

Tip #10:  The best time to visit St. Mark's Basilica is first thing in the morning when it opens at 9.45. There are fewer crowds at this time and the mosaics are lit by natural light. If it's a dark or foggy day, consider visiting between 11.30 and 12.30, when the inside lights illuminate the mosaics.

Photo of empty street with laundry in Venice by Sanjay

Photo of canal at night by Alainf1

Photo of Sardines at the Rialto Market by David Sifry

Photo of Piazza San Marco by Jtravism

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