Italy Beyond the Obvious

SCUBA Diving in Italy: Isola del Giglio

 Italy's Legambiente announced today that the Tuscan Archipelago's Isola del Giglio is ranked as the Number 1 coastal destination in the country this year, due not only to its pristine waters, gorgeous scenery, and picture-perfect beaches, but also because of its art, food, and respect for the environment. Number 2 on the list? Cinque Terre's towns of Riomaggiore, Monterosso and Vernazza.

Ideal for easier dives, Giglio is a quick and easy hop on the frequent Santo Stefano ferry. And as far as tourists go: compared to other islands in the Tuscan archipelago, it's busier than Giannutri but not as busy as Elba. 

Taken from the Greek word Aegilium, meaning goats, Giglio offers a lot even if you're not diving: spend time on its sandy beaches or visit the three towns. Climb up to Poggio della Pagana, at 500m, for a spectacular view overlooking the archipelago. Do one of the many short hikes on the island. Or visit the three-towered castle, built in the 12th century.

The best weather for diving is in autumn when the water is warm, otherwise it's worth visiting in the spring when the flowers are abundant.

If you need a guide or diving gear, or prefer an organized diving excursion, get in touch with Scuba's Angels (all of whom speak fluent English) and they will sort it out for you.

 Photo of Giglio by patapat

Murano vs. Burano vs. Torcello: I Vote Burano

 

Here are my top three reasons to visit the lovely Venetian island of Burano:

 

1. If you like to amble, or enjoy a wander off the beaten track, you'll appreciate Burano's atmosphere (less touristy, authentic, but still lots of pretty things to see), size (small thus manageable), and location (about 45 minutes from Venice: far enough, but not too far). 

2. Can you really resist those gorgeous painted houses?

3. The fabulous food and great atmosphere at Osteria Ai Pescatori

You may notice that buying lace is not on the list, even though Burano is famous, historically, for lace. There's even a lace museum, and some days it features lace-making demonstrations. But these days not much lace is actually produced on the island. There is lots available for purchase, but check before you commit: most of it is made in China. 

Murano

Don't get me wrong: Murano is pretty, and worth a visit, especially if you like glass or want to buy a chandelier (they do ship). Plus, it's on the way to Burano. Visit the Glass Museum, the church of Santi Maria e Donato, and one of the glass factories to catch a glass-blowing demonstration - which will most likely produce a Ferrari-like horse.  

Don't fall for the we'll-take-you-to-Murano-for-free-from Venice boat tour/scam unless you're comfortable in a hard-sell situation. And don't worry if you do get stuck: if you're not interested, walk away, and get the vaporetto back to Venice on your own time.

Torcello

If you want to get a little further off the beaten path, hop on the shuttle vaporetto from Burano to the island of Torcello. It used to be the seat of the Venetian Empire so has a couple historically significant churches which house some incredible frescoes and mosaics. Apart from that, and a couple restaurants, there isn't much more to see on Torcello.

Should I Stay or Should I Go?

I usually recommend people visit the islands if they have at least 3 full days in Venice. If you have fewer than 3 days, don't use one of them for the islands - just enjoy Venice itself. If you want to visit all 3 islands, allow a full day. For just Murano and Burano, plan on at least 6 hours, round-trip, though of course it depends on individual shopping/eating/wandering preferences.

 

Getting There

Take the vaporetto 41 or 42 from Venice. It depends where you catch it, but if you leave from Fondamenta Nuova, it's 15 minutes to Murano. From Murano, it's 33 minutes to Burano. From Burano to Torcello, it's a very quick hop.

Photo of Ferrari-like Murano horse taken in Murano by Sanjay

Photo of Burano houses from www.istockphoto.com

Make Time for the Locals

One of the best ways to get to know Italy is to get to know Italians, so if your waiter or barista or hotelier strikes up a conversation, I highly recommend making time for them. They are most likely not chatting with you in the name of Good Customer Service or because they want something from you (it took me quite a while to believe this but it's usually true). They really do just want to get to know you a little better.

The snap above is of the owner of La Vache Qui Rit restaurant in Torino. A friend and I had a fabulous dinner there and as we were leaving (at about 11 pm), the owner came over to say hello. We stood in the doorway for over an hour talking: about our meal, the recipes, beef in general, how his restaurant got started and how business was going, and (somehow) young people in Torino. Every 15 minutes or so, he would ask whether we wanted a limoncello or digestivo, and we kept declining, saying we really did need to get home. 

I don't really remember what else we did that day, or even what I ate at the restaurant, except that it was excellent. But I'm glad I made time during my visit to have that conversation. And of course whenever someone mentions they are going to Torino (Turin), I always recommend visiting La Vache Qui Rit.

Photo by Madeline

The Amalfi Coast: My Top 5 Recommendations

How much time do I need to see the Amalfi Coast? is a question I get all the time. 

How you spend your time on the Amalfi Coast depends on your interests and travel pace, of course; that said here are the five things I would definitely include on a first visit to the Amalfi Coast. I'd take three full days to do them, mainly because my #1 would take most of a day.

#5. Visit the gorgeous Duomo di Sant'Andrea in the town of Amalfi. If you go in high season, there's a good chance you'll see a wedding taking place. Photo from www.istockphoto.com

#4. Take a boat between Positano and Amalfi (or really, between any of the towns on the coast) to gape at the views of the coastline from the water.

Photo, above, by Sanjay

#3. Have dinner at Don Alfonso's, a (very reasonably priced, considering) three Michelin-star restaurant.

#2. Visit the town of Ravello for the views and for Mamma Agata's fabulous cooking class. Photo, above, of Ravello by Simon.Monk

#1. Since I love hiking and spectacular scenery, my #1 pick for what to do on the Amalfi Coast is to spend 3 hours hiking Il Sentiero Degli Dei, or The Path of The Gods. 

If you're interested in hiking it, click here or here for more photos and detailed information. Know, however, that this path is not busy like the Cinque Terre. You can get lost, and you may not run into many other hikers. So bring a map or hire a guide, set off with plenty of water and food, and plan on being out for about 6 hours. And please if you go, send me photos! Photo by NileGuide

Note that these are my picks for what to do on the Amalfi Coast. Add a another day or so to your trip and visit the islands of Capri or Ischia off the coast. Or go up the mainland and spend a few days seeing Naples, Pompeii or Herculaneum. 

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip to Italy: have a look at the sample itinerary or learn more.

SCUBA Diving in Italy: Giannutri

  

The Island of Elba is the busiest and most popular of the Tuscan archipelago, but on the other end of the spectrum, visit the tiny island of Giannutri for a more off-the-beaten-track experience. Just 5 km long, it has a year-round population of 20, but sees more activity in the summertime when the daily 90-minute ferry starts from Porto Santo Stefano.

It is easy to incorporate a day of diving into an Italian tourist itinerary. For example, Monday: explore Tuscan hill towns; Tuesday: diving; Wednesday: visit a museum and do some wine-tasting. And Giannutri is a great day trip: catch the 10 am ferry, and return with the 4.45 pm one; you're back at your hotel with time to freshen up before dinner. 

If you want to stay overnight on Giannutri, it's possible, but there is no hotel on the island and camping is not allowed. Call the island's restaurant, La Taverna del Granduca, and they will set you up with accommodation.

If you need gear or a guide, contact Scuba's Angels, based out of Torino, and they will make sure you are organized.

Photo from www.about-maremma.com

Italy's Best Bridges, Part II

Here are my picks for best bridges South of Florence, heading from calf to foot. For best bridges of Florence and the North, see Part I.

Civita di Bagnoregio

An hour and a half north of Rome, this spectacular 2500 year old town is atop a plateau that is, unfortunately, crumbling. The natural bridge that connected Civita (in the photo) to the larger town of Bagnoregio has worn away and has been replaced by a manmade footbridge. But if you are staying in Civita, a local will take your luggage from the car park into the town by vespa. Civita's population varies from between 12 and 100 inhabitants depending on the season, but because of Rick Steeves' write-up, it has seen an increase in tourism over the last few years. Photo from www.istockphoto.com.

Ponte delle Torri in Spoleto

Built in the 13th century most likely over the remains of a Roman aqueduct, the Ponte delle Torri is 90 m high and carries water in addition to cars and people. Two of its 10 arcades are hollow, with doors and lookout windows: the bridge is in a strategic position with a wide view over the valley. Photo by Patrick Denker.

Ponte Sant'Angelo, Rome

Completed in 134 AD, then adorned with angels carved by Gianlorenzo Bernini and his students in 1670, the Ponte Sant'Angelo leads from the ancient Campus Martius to the mausoleum of the Emperor Hadrian, the Castel Sant'Angelo. Photo by Allie Caulfield.

The Ponte Milvio in Rome is Rome's oldest bridge, dating to 109 BC, but is more recently known for its unique attraction: lovers stand on the bridge, attach a padlock proclaiming their eternal love, and throw the key into the water. Only in Italy. Photo by zingaro I am a gypsy

Viaduct Moranti-Bisantis, Catanzaro

Built in 1962, this concrete bridge is the symbol of the southern Italian city of Catanzaro. Click here for more details about the bridge written by an (American!) local. Photo by Cherrye Moore.

I have to include an honorable mention: The bridge to Sicily has not been built yet, but the Italian government has recently announced that it is going ahead with the plans. At a cost of 6.1 billion Euros, the bridge will be 3.3 km long and will accommodate 6000 cars per hour and up to 200 trains per day. Personally I would consider doing a bridge-to-tunnel option like the Oresund bridge between Sweden and Denmark. I guess I should have returned Silvio's voicemail. :o)

Let Italy Beyond the Obvious plan your trip to Italy: have a look at the sample itinerary or learn more.

The Venice Biennale

 

 

  

Venice is known for - among other things - its gorgeous Byzantine mosaics, jaw-dropping Tintorettos, and hand-blown glass masterpieces. But the city also hosts a significant contemporary art exhibition every two years, the Venice Biennale. 

  

The event is always held in the gigantic Arsenale, and is on in 2009. In addition to contemporary art - which opens June 7th and runs to November 22nd - the Biennale also includes the Venice Film Festival, dance and music events, and (on even years) architecture. Click here for the calendar.

 

This week's Photo Friday selection, Boy by Ron Mueck, was taken by Sanjay at the 2001 Biennale

Italy's Best Bridges, Part I

Architects and engineers appreciate that a bridge is more than just a way to cross a gap, but how many of us would include bridges on our list of Things To See in Italy on Vacation? 

These bridges are fun to visit, will give you a nice photo-op and of course are free to walk across. 

Here are my picks for best bridges in the North in order from (in my opinion) least to most famous:

Pont d’Ael, Aosta

This 66m-high, 2000-year old Roman acqueduct crosses the gorge of Grand Eyvia, near Aosta in the Italian Alps.  Photo, left,  from Wikimedia Commons.

Ponte Vecchio, Dolce Aqua, Liguria

Very close to the French border, the quiet medieval hamlet of Dolce Aqua is home to this exquisite bridge, the Ponte Vecchio,  built in the 15^th century. Photo by Karl Blackwell.

Ponte Degli Alpini, Bassano del Grappa, Veneto

With mountain views, a pretty main street, a scenic walk along Viale dei Martiri and of course, its covered bridge, the town of Bassano del Grappa is worth a visit. It’s conveniently situated close to the famous Valpolicella wine region as well as Prosecco country. Photo from www.istockphoto.com

 

Ponte della Maddalena, Borgo a Mozzano, near Lucca

An impressive example of medieval engineering, this 900-year old bridge was allegedly built on a pact with the devil. Because of that, it's known as Ponte del Diavolo or Devil’s Bridge, but around 1500 it was also given the official name Ponte della Maddalena, after Mary Magdelene. For more information on bridges around the world that were considered to have been built for the devil, click here. Photo by Sanjay.

Bridge of Sighs, Venice

Built in 1602 and designed by Antoni Contino, Venice’s Ponte dei Sospiri or Bridge of Sighs was named because of the prisoners’ sighs as they walked over the bridge from the interrogation rooms to the prison and took their last look outside. Photo by Eustaquio Santimano.

Ponte Rialto, Venice

The original Rialto market bridge was built in the early 1400’s and made of wood. But when it partly burnt in 1310, collapsed in 1444, and collapsed again in 1524 from the weight of crowds, the city decided to build the new bridge out of stone. Many great designers, including Michelangelo, were considered, but the design competition was won by Antonio da Ponte (ponte means bridge in Italian; coincidence?). The new bridge was complete by 1591, with a very similar design to the wooden original. Photo by Joe Shlabotnik.

Ponte Vecchio, Florence

The original bridge in this spot was built by the Romans over a thousand years ago, and was a simple structure. But so many soldiers crossed on a regular basis that blacksmiths, tanners and butchers decided to set up shop on the bridge to take advantage of the high traffic location. 

The bridge was swept away by floods in 1117 and again in 1333, but was rebuilt in 1345 similar to the version we see today. 

When the wealthy Medici family arrived in Florence, they decided that the post-plague beautification of Florence would include having goldsmiths and artists on the bridge, and commerce over the Arno flourished. In the 17^th and 18^th centuries an upper row and a back row of shops were added to make room for additional merchants. The addition strengthened the structure of the bridge so much that when the Arno flooded again in 1966, all the shops were wiped out but the bridge stood. The top level of the bridge is part of the enclosed passageway, the Vasari Corridor. Photo by McPig.

Two additional bridges worth mentioning are Verona's Ponte di Castelvecchio, which had the largest span in the world when it was built in the mid-14th century; and the ultra-modern Calatrava bridge in Reggio Emilia.

Stay tuned for Italy's Best Bridges, Part II: South of Florence

Let Italy: Beyond the Obvious plan your trip to Italy: have a look at the sample itinerary or learn more.

The Italian Cheese Cart

It's easy to go to Italy and completely miss experiencing The Cheese Cart: traveling on a budget often means pizza for dinner; and at a ristorante, after the bread basket, antipasto, primo, secondo and dolce, when the waiter rolls around with the cheese cart it can be hard to answer with more than a groan. 

But I recommend putting aside some funds or pacing yourself to partake in this cultural and educational experience.

Even if you've been there done that in another country, such as France (where you'd gotten used to the cheese cart rolling around before dessert), participating in the cheese course is a great way to learn about locally-made cheeses. Ask the waiter to describe every cheese on the cart if you wish (note: some are more enthusiastic about this request than others, but I've done it). Especially for cheese lovers traveling around Italy, use your waiter's expertise and recommendations to compare cheeses made in different parts of the country. 

Cheese course etiquette says you then pick a few cheeses - not more than 4 - and the waiter will cut slivers which you then eat with a knife and fork. Write down the ones you like or ask the waiter to repeat the details of the cheeses on your plate. You'll need to know for your next picnic lunch. 

See pretty travel photos on Photo Friday at Delicious Baby's Blog.

Photo of Milan cheese cart by Sanjay