Italy Beyond the Obvious

15 Local Hotspots in Milan Right Now

My friend Maria has lived in Milan for 10 years, and is one of those people who always knows the best places to hang out, eat, drink, and shop.  So: Maria's Top 15 Local Milan Hotspots, Right Now:

Local Hotspot #1: Gelato

At Chocolat, in the center of the city near the Cadorna train station, expect a queue outside by 10 pm most evenings between May and October. With a great atmosphere and delicious gelato of all flavors, Chocolat speciality is - what else - every imaginable flavor of chocolate gelato.

Local Hotspot #2: Hidden Garden

Have a drink in the lush garden of the luxury Bulgari Hotel, down a private street in the center of the shopping district. The garden is open to anyone who wants to sit down for a drink or a bite, and is an oasis of calm in the middle of a bustling city. Maria says they also make the best panini in town. 

Local Hotspot #3: Shoes

Visit Le Solferine in Via Solferino for an amazing selection and quality of Italian shoes. One of the owners is also a designer.

Local Hotspot #4: Drinks at Sunset

In the navigli or canals district of Milan, grab a stool, order a drink, and sit along the naviglio grande at Luca e Andrea's to enjoy the sunset. Even though the barstools cannot come outside until the end of May according to local laws (even if the weather is gorgeous), it's still worth a visit for aperitivi or dinner. It's a small place, so call ahead or arrive early.

Local Hotspot #5: Boutique Shopping

Corso Vercelli has a lot of local boutiques and great selection, and many more locals than tourists. You'll find clothing for men, women, and children, athletic gear and more.

Local Hotspot #6: Restaurant

When I asked Maria about restaurants in Milan, she was less enthusiastic than I'd expected. Finally she explained that the restaurants in Milan in her opinion, are overpriced for the quality of food they serve. Sure, there are great restaurants if you don't mind the prices, but personally, she said, she'd rather cook at home. But, wait: one that is worth going to, with quality food and not overpriced, is Ristorante Da Gaspare.

Local Hotspot #7: Cocktails and More

This hasn't changed in years: Corso Como 10 is a chic and reliably fun place to sip a cocktail or have dinner with friends, or people-watch. If it's a nice night, sit outside in the garden. For the "and more", click on the link above to explore their artsy website.

Local Hotspot #8: Best Pizza

Maria says: Go to Rosso Pomodoro.

Local Hotspot #9: Aperitivo with Kids

The Italian tradition of the 6 o'clock aperitivo-with-free-food is fantastic, but can you bring the kids? Not usually. But while Rita's, near the naviglio grande, is a hotspot for many even without kids, the kids are welcome. Go for the aperitivo hour, Sunday brunch, or dinner. Definitely make a reservation. Via Angelo Fumagalli 1, tel. 02 837 2865.

Local Hotspot #10: Best Cannoli

Maria is originally from Sicily, home of the cannolo. So she was very excited when Palermo's famous Antica Focacceria San Francesco opened up recently inside the Princi bakery at Via Ponte Vetero 10. A true Sicilian bakery, the Antica Focacceria makes - among other things - a fantastic cannolo and a panino con la milza, a sort of beef sandwich. 

The Princi bakery (click here for a list of Princi in Milan) is a hotspot in itself, with amazing focaccia. Princi also prides itself on being open "all the time" (which should not be taken literally, but if you're coming home from the discoteca at 5 am, it's well worth swinging by to check).

Local Hotspot #11: Department Store

If you thought that the high-end department store La Rinacente in Piazza Duomo was somewhat expensive or touristy, head to the Coin store in Piazza Cinque Giornate. It's been renovated and has a huge selection of reasonably priced quality merchandise.

Local Hotspot #12: Authentic Italian Panino

For an authentic and fresh Italian panino, visit one of Milan's six Panino Giusto locations. It's a chain, but so what. Yum.

Local Hotspot #13: Romantic Cocktail

Enjoy a cocktail at Cafè Savona: this romantic locale also has a few TVs on the wall for sports fans. Go for lunch, the aperitivo hour, or a late-evening drink.

Local Hotspot #14: New Boutique in the Quadrilatero D'Oro

You'll recognize many of the top designer names on the streets of Milan's shopping district, the Quadrilatero D'Oro. But a relative newcomer on the block has made a splash with the locals: visit the Zap store in Via Solferino for unique and trendy women's and men's fashions.

Local Hotspot #15: Trendy Eatery

Set up sushi bar style, the Obika mozzarella bar is an international chain founded by a Neapolitan that has become a hit with the Milanese. If you like mozzarella di bufala, this is your place. Here's a photo of a menu item at Obika:

More on Milan:

Top Things to See in Milan

Great day trips from Milan

Photo of cocktail by thebittenword.com

Photo of naviglio by Nettaphoto

Photo of Sicilian cannoli by Volavale

Photo of lunch at Obika by matthew.hickey

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Naples, Italy's most Italian city

Apologies to Milan, where I have called home, and to Rome, who according to many owns this title. But in Naples, you'll see first-hand where the Italian expression "che sceneggiata Napoletana!", or "What a Neapolitan drama!" comes from. Naples is often described as vibrant or colorful, its people expressive and passionate, its streetlife gritty. In a word, yes, it's one big, messy, fabulous Neapolitan drama.

Keep your tourist checklist, because it's still useful. But in Naples, half of your Italian experience will be visiting places on your checklist, and the other half will consist of what you see while you're getting there.

This means: allow more time in the schedule between activities so that you can people-watch or follow your nose down that narrow winding street with atmosphere. (See photo: people-watching in Piazza del Plebiscito). If a native wants to practice their English, make time for them. But keep your wits about you, and don't make your bag or purse vulnerable to the famous moped purse-snatchers. If you're female, you may not have been whistled at elsewhere in Italy, but expect it here, and try to take it as a compliment. 

A Worthwhile Checklist

With a 2800 year history and 448 churches, you can decide how much time you want to spend in the art & architecture category:

• The archaeological museum is a must, especially if Pompeii is on your itinerary. There's also a Secret Museum, a collection of erotic Roman art. Contact the museum or ask at your hotel if you're interested in visiting the Secret Museum, because it's not always open.  

• The Capodimonti museum, full of masterpieces, also has a gorgeous picnic-worthy park outside with stunning views. 
• Check the museums of Naples website for addresses, entrance fees, and opening times. 
• Take a walk through the Galleria Umberto I. It reminds me of Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, but these two covered galleries were not actually done by the same architect.
• Visit the Church of San Severo to see the incredible veiled Christ sculpture.
• Walk around in the gorgeous cloister garden of Santa Chiara  (see photo, below)

• Don't miss the Church of Gesù Nuovo with its funky façade
• Visit the Royal Palace in Piazza del Plebiscito (closed Wednesdays, 4€ admission)

Walking and Wandering

• Walk down the pedestrian street Via Toledo, all the way down to Piazza Plebiscito.
• From Piazza del Plebiscito, amble down to the water and enjoy the lungo mare or boardwalk. 
• Explore the narrow winding streets of Spaccanapoli (translation "split Napoli"), which cuts through the historic center of the city.

Food

• In Piazza del Plebiscito, have a drink at the historic Cafe Gambrinus.
• Or try the famous nocciolato coffee at Il Professore.
• Eat pizza at L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, and expect a line. (If you've read Elizabeth Gilbert's book Eat, Pray, Love: this is where she ate). But unlike every other restaurant in Italy, this one practically never closes: it's open 10 am to 11 pm every day. For more suggestions on which pizzeria to visit in Naples, check out the Pizza Napoletana Facebook Group.
• Try vermicelli with shellfish, and buffalo mozzarella, which will melt in your mouth. If you pass an outdoor market during the day, note the fruits and vegetables that are abundant. Those are the ones in season and the ones to order.

Castles and Views

• Take the funicular up to Vornero for views, and to visit Castle Saint Elmo
• From the center of town, walk up to visit one of the symbols of Naples, the Castel Nuovo, which also houses the Civic Museum.
• Visit the seaside Castel dell'Ovo, a manageable walk from Piazza del Plebiscito. Click here to read about the castle's connection to an actual egg. Photo of Castel Dell'Ovo below by Verde Luigi.
  

  

Shopping

• Head to Via Calabritto for high-end designer names.
• For shoe shopping, I love the markets, of which there are many. Or head to Piazza dei Martiri, and then go up the tiny Vicoletto della Cavallerizza for a great selection of shoe shops.
• Or go to Via San Gregorio Armeno and Via San Biagio dei Librai for stores filled with nativity scenes and religous figures. Check out the amazing Doll Hospital, Ospedale delle Bombole. 
• To visit a vibrant Italian market, head to Poggioreale on Sunday morning. Be careful, and arrive by taxi (expect to pay 7€ from the center of town), not public transport.

A Couple Other Worthwhile Things To Do

 

• Take the tour of underground Naples,  Napoli Sotterranea.
• If you like opera, check the schedule of the Teatro San Carlo, the best opera house in southern Italy

A Note on the Language

If you're studying Italian, you'll notice something about Naples: the accent is very different because you're in the south. If you want to practice your passato remoto, this is a good place to do it: it's used much more here than it is in the north of Italy, and the verb "prendere" is substituted for the verb "pigliare" much of the time.

Fabulous Day Trips from Naples

• Take a boat to the lovely islands of Ischia, Procida, or Capri.
• Climb the local volcano, Vesuvius.  
• Visit the archaeological ruins in Pompeii or Herculaneum.
• Take a ferry to the Aeolian Islands of Sicily and climb the volcano Stromboli  
• Head to the Amalfi coast and visit Sorrento, Amalfi, Ravello, Vietri or Positano (but you can't do all that in one day).
• Visit the Royal Palace in Caserta

All photos except Castel dell'Ovo taken by Sanjay

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20 good reasons to visit Lucca

 

Visit the walled Tuscan town of Lucca for the food, the views, to bike the walls, or because you like art. It's a satisfying combination as a tourist: eat a lovely Italian meal, then cycle it off. Or, climb the tower, eat the meal and then have a nap.

In addition, Lucca is just a nice place to hang out: it's less touristy than other Tuscan towns, is not built on a hill, and has many pedestrian-only streets within the old walls. There are Roman remains, beautiful historical churches, and the summer festivals host great music.

 

The Food

Locals are proud of their Luccan (not Tuscan) food. Once upon a time, Luccan families acquired their wealth from the banking and silk industries. More money actually meant that they used extra eggs in the local pasta recipe, so the traditional tortelli Lucchesi is a more yellow pasta. It's also stuffed with meat and topped with a meaty ragú: most definitely a rich dish (biking or stair-climbing, anyone?). 

If you pass a bakery, try the local buccellato: mid-day with whipped cream and coffee, or after dinner with wine and strawberries or ricotta and rum.

Try the zuppa di farro, a sort of barley-with-bean soup. And when you bite into the Luccan bread, you'll notice something missing: salt. (I have adopted the Italian habit of making a puddle of olive oil on a plate, salting the oil, and dipping my bread in it, but I hear unsalted bread is healthier than salted).

The New York Times had a great review of restaurants in Lucca.

 

The Views

Climb the 230 steps up to the Torre Guinigi (photo above) and have a look around. You'll find the tower easily because it has a tree growing out the top.

The Walls

The somewhat modernized 15th- and 16th-century walls completely surround the old town, and have a 4 km (2.5mi) circumference that will take the average cyclist about 30 minutes. See photo of the walls, below. Even at 12m (40ft) high, the tops of the walls are very safe: they are paved, and wide enough that they were even used for racing sports cars - and are a great place to have a picnic.

To rent bikes, head to the tourist office in Piazza Santa Maria and rent from one of the two bike shops, Cicli Bizzarri or Antonio Poli's. They do have helmets available but you won't see local cyclists wearing them. Head up the ramp from the piazza to get up on to the walls. Many hotels in town also provide bicycles for guests. 

 

Oh, You Like Art?

The façade of Lucca's Duomo or cathedral is a fantastic example of Luccan Romanesque architecture. Before going in, appreciate the bas-relief sculpture by Nicola Pisano. 

Inside the church, admire paintings by Ghirlandaio, Tintoretto, Zuccari and Fra' Bartolomeo, as well as Iacopo della Quercia's most famous work, the tomb of Ilaria del Carretto. A wooden crucifix Volto Santo, supposedly of Christ's face carved by Nostradamus, has been a pilgrimage destination for centuries, and has been recorded in Dante's The Divine Comedy and Victor Hugo's Notre Dame de Paris.

The Church of San Michele il Foro is also worth a visit: the façade is made of richly carved white limestone, and the inside includes paintings by Andrea della Robbia and Filippino Lippi. Look up at the church from the side and you'll see that the façade is really only that: a front with no back - and an open staircase up to the top. 

Round out the church-hop with the Basilica di San Frediano, from the 12th century, which contains an array of impressive paintings and sculptures spanning centuries.

Music

The composer Puccini was born in Lucca; visit his birthplace, and consider attending the Puccini festival which is held every year in July and August. (Note that the concerts are early enough to catch the train back to Florence if you came on a day trip). Lucca also hosts a summer music festival with more contemporary artists (in 2009: James Taylor, Burt Bacharach, Moby, John Fogerty, Morrison / Macdonald).

Shopping

• visit the antiques market on the 3rd weekend of every month
• shop Via Fillungo, the main drag
• the last Sunday of the month, there's an arts & crafts market in Piazza Duomo 

A Very Brief History

Founded by the Etruscans, Lucca became a Roman colony in 180 BC. Evidence of its Roman amphitheatre built over 2000 years ago can be seen in Piazza Anfiteatro, which perfectly preserves the amphitheater's elliptical shape. Napoleon put his sister in charge of the town in 1805. The area around Lucca is also fertile in olives, grapes, marble, and (yes) spas.

Getting There

The train from Florence is 70-90 mins, and the train station is just outside Lucca's walls and an easy walk. 

Photos of Lucca from top to bottom: silk scarves at the market, view of the Duomo, the Guinigi tower, Lucca's walls, all by Sanjay

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An Italian Bank Account, ID Card, and Residency, Oh My!

This is Part II of my experience navigating the bureaucracy in Italy after relocating to Milan in 2000 on a corporate expat assignment. 

See Part I, How Can I Work Legally in Italy? This is not intended to be a step-by-step guide, rather is a description of my own experience. Any errors or omissions regarding the process are my own. 

Having recovered from the bureaucratic ordeal of obtaining my Italian work visa and permesso di soggiorno, I decided it would be useful to have an Italian bank account. 

After a 20-minute drive to the bank, a 20-minute wait in line, and a 20-minute explanation about the different types of accounts, the bank rep asks: 

Do you have an ID card? Unfortunately I didn't. 

The bank will charge you millions (of lire, since this was pre-Euro), he said, with no ID card. Go get an ID card and come back when you have one.

I called the Comune to find out what I needed to apply for an ID card: bring your permesso di soggiorno, 3 properly-sized photos, and come any weekday between 2.30 and 3.30 pm, they said.

At exactly 2.30 pm the next day, I arrived at the Comune to apply for my ID card, and they asked: 

Do you have residency? Unfortunately, I didn't.

In that case, I had to apply for residency from the main Comune first. I ran out of the building, jumped on the Metro, and arrived at the main Comune at 3 pm. By 3.15 pm my number was called. 

What do I need in order to apply for residency? I asked the woman behind the counter. Permesso di soggiorno, passport, and a photocopy of each. Excellent. I had my passport and permesso di soggiorno in hand, and there was a photocopier right behind her. 

But she said she couldn't make the two copies for me. She gave me directions to the closest photocopier I could use: go outside, and around the corner, there's a store where you can pay for copies, she said. It was a short walk, and I made it back quickly. I was lucky that she recognized me, took pity, and let me jump the queue so I could submit my application before the office closed at 3.30 pm.

Only 4 months processing time for the residency. 

Then I could apply for an ID card.

Then I could apply for a bank account.

Unbelievably, it all got done, and before the 1-year anniversary of my relocation to Italy.

 

So set expectations accordingly. In Italy, any bureaucratic transaction happens during regular work hours, thus requires time off work. Government offices in general are not open over your lunch hour, before work, after work, or on weekends. 

When I talked to my Italian boss about all the time off I'd need to get myself set up in Italy, he didn't enjoy hearing about it, but he just shrugged and said pazienza, (translation: there's nothing you can do about it), so go do what you need to do. The Italians are used to it.

Photo from La Repubblica

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Top 15 Ways to Experience Family Friendly Italy

Traveling with kids can be a challenge or it can be a delight. 

Expect to: move more slowly, not accomplish as much in a day, maybe go back to the hotel after lunch for nap time, and not stay out late. But you can still see a lot, eat well, and have a fabulous family vacation in Italy, starting with the suggestions below.

#1: Meals are Easy. Italians love kids, and welcome them everywhere, including restaurants. Think pizza, pasta, gelato, and look at the restaurant's offerings in the contorni, or side dishes part of the menu. Restaurants rarely have childrens' menus, but are happy to oblige if you ask for a half-portion. 

#2: Beeline to Piazza Duomo, or the main square in any city: an open space with no cars, where the kids can run around or hang out and play around the fountain while you sit and people-watch with an espresso, while you discuss the day's plan. Photo below is Parma's Piazza Duomo.

#3: Set up a treasure hunt based on a theme. For example ask the kids to try to spot angels, fountains, words, or different animals. Rome is a great place to do a "fountain" walk: visit several and ask which one they liked best (give them each a handful of Euro cents for tossing in). Venice is ideal for identifying favorite bridges or boats. Have them take photos if they are old enough. In Florence, ask them to keep an eye out for David sculptures. The "angel" or "halo" theme works well if you're visiting lots of churches with frescoes. 

Or ask them to keep their eye out for written words. The list could include: via, cappuccino, espresso, bar, senso unico, duomo, piazza, pizzeria, trattoria, osteria, ristorante, saldi, gelato, aperto, chiuso, orari, albergo.  If you've found pizzeria, gelato, and saldi, this activity alone may take the whole day.

#4: Beaches: incorporate a day or two of sandy beaches, such as: Elba, Rimini, Lake Como, Lake Maggiore, or Lake Garda, or on the island of Ischia off Naples.

#5: Plan short museum visits. Do a bit of research ahead of time and pick a few paintings from the museum you're planning to visit. Then beeline to those paintings and ask the kids questions that force them to really look at the art work. 

When I worked as a docent at an art gallery, I'd ask my group of 5-year olds: what are the people in the painting/sculpture doing? Do you think that person is happy? How do those people know each other? Where do you think they live? How old are they? Do you think they are having fun? Would you like to be their friend? 

Allocate an hour or two, maximum, for museums, and afterwards go find a gelato.

If the kids are misbehaving, visit one of Italy's numerous torture museums to scare the kids into being good for the rest of the trip. ;o)

#6: Head for the pedestrian-only streets which are, in most cities, a low-stress area for kids to amble, and great for window shopping or paying attention to detail. My favorite pedestrian streets are in: Venice (of course), but also Bologna (photo below), Turin, and Siena.

#7: Visit a grocery store or market and discuss the different types of food you don't have at home. Don't miss the dairy and pasta sections! Have the kids help pick out food, then head to a green space - see #8 - for a picnic.

#8: Let them run around in a large green space, such as Rome's Villa Borghese, the Boboli gardens of Florence, the Parco Sempione in Milan, the park of the Palazzo Reale in Monza (a 10-minute train ride - see #15 - from Milan), the Parchi di Nervi outside of Genoa, any of the Villas in Lake Como or Lake Maggiore, or the Botanic Gardens in the city of Parma. To name a few of my favorites.

#9: Visit Childrens' Museums. There's a children's museum in Rome, and it's worth checking the MUBA website for childrens' exhibits around Italy (current exhibits in Milan, Treviso, Florence). There's also a children's museum in Siena,

#10: Climb up churches or towers to enjoy the views. Rome, Florence, Venice, Bologna, Lucca (photo below), and Milan are great ones. Best of course, if kids have the stamina and are not afraid of heights, and of course if you're not carrying them in a baby carrier!

#11: Rent bikes and ride around the walls of the Tuscan town of Lucca or go up to the Dolomites and ride the one-way, downhill bike path into Austria. Then take the train back.

#12: Ask the kids to look at the "pictures" and tell you the story when looking at mosaics in Palermo, Ravenna, or Piazza Armerina (Sicily), or at frescoes or stained glass windows. For example, looking at the stained glass window below: What do you see in the picture? What is happening? 

#13: Amusement parks and attractions: consider spending half a day at Gardaland or another amusement park on Lake Garda; Il Cavallino Matto in Tuscany; Italia in Miniatura near Rimini; the Pinocchio park in Tuscany; Zoosafari in Puglia; Citta' della Domenica in Perugia. Visit the Genoa acquarium, Citta' dei Bambini (Children's museum), or Museum of the sea.

#14: Castles & Bridges: Kids love castles and bridges, and making up stories about them. And there are many in Italy. Some of my favorite castles are in Tuscany and Umbria, as well as the castles around Parma, one in the town of Sirmione (photo below), the castle Sforzesco in Milan, the 3 castles in San Marino. There are so many amazing bridges in Italy, and you can talk about which ones are longest, getting them to count their steps or count the arches across. I've written about my favorites in the north and south.

#15: Use public transportation: kids love (short) train rides, trams, buses, subways, and boats. Great boat rides include the Cinque Terre, Lake Como, Lake Maggiore, the Amalfi Coast, the trip from Naples to Capri or Ischia. And, of course, Venice. I usually recommend people avoid the gondolas in Venice, because they are overpriced and because the gondoliers exude a tourist-friendly  - but not authentic - persona. Instead, ride a vaporetto or water taxi. But: with kids, a ride in a real gondola may be worth it.

p.s: For finding family-friendly accommodation around Italy, Ciaobambino is a great website, though not as extensive as the more time-consuming website Venere. Or, contact me, and I'll put together a trip that meets everyone's needs.

Ladybugs photo by Pier Luigi; All other photos by Sanjay

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San Marino

First and foremost: San Marino is not actually in Italy, but is its own country. It happens to be the oldest sovereign state and constitutional republic in the world, having started out in the year 301.

It's not that obvious you're entering another country on a visit to San Marino: you won't need a passport, the currency is the Euro, and people speak Italian (though there is a Sammarinese dialect). 

But look a little more closely: notice the postage stamps and collectors coins, the license plates, and the country's unique flag. Visit the castles to get a sense of the country's long history and you'll realize you're visiting a place with a unique legacy.

On A Visit

Bring comfortable walking shoes and lots of energy, and walk up to the hilltop castles on the three peaks of Mount Titano, to soak up the history and fabulous views. The photo is of the first tower, called Rocca or Guaita. Watch the brief changing of the guard in Piazza della Libertà, and explore the small streets.

For some local flavor, sample the chocolatey "three towers" cake, locally-made cheese, or wine: the red Sangiovese, or the white Biancale. 

You don't need a lot of time to see the main town of San Marino - a day is plenty - but consider staying overnight: it can be a bit overrun with tourists, including Italian school groups (I first visited the country on a 5-day class trip when I was in high school, or Liceo Classico, in Milan). It's not surprising that 50% of the country's GDP is from tourism. But when the tourists get back on their buses, you'll have some time to explore its streets and soak up the serene and authentic atmosphere.

A Bit of History

Without reviewing San Marino's very long story in detail, I think there's one obvious question: how on earth did San Marino escape joining the rest of the parts of Italy when Garibaldi led unification in 1871? 

Answer: San Marino had given refuge to people persecuted for their support of the unification, so when it asked to not be included into the Italian state, Garibaldi obliged. 

Facts

• population: 30,000 
• size: 61 square kilometers
• 3 million visitors a year

The San Marino Grand Prix is not actually in San Marino, but is in the town of Imola, 100 km away.

Photo from www.istockphoto.com

SCUBA Diving in Italy: Elba

The island of Elba, famous for Napoleon's 10-month exile, is the largest island of the Tuscan archipelago. It's probably also the easiest to navigate as a tourist, with lots of shops, restaurants, hotels, sandy beaches, and of course: great SCUBA diving. 

Diving

The local company Diving in Elba has SCUBA classes and excursions, including a "Baby School" for kids 8 and up.

Or contact Scuba's Angels, a team of female diving instructors, fluent in English and based out of Turin, who organize single- or multiple-day diving trips.

 

If you're hiring a boat and just want to know where to dive, this website has details on great dives around Elba.

The Best of The Rest

Rent a car on the island to visit some of the 150 beaches (!) or the pretty towns of Capoliveri, Portoazzuro, or Marina di Campo.

The island's food is Tuscan - with an emphasis on seafood of course - and Elba produces more types of local wine than I have room to list. 

Elba is also interesting for history- and archaeology-lovers, having been inhabited by the Etruscans, Romans, and Spanish; and fought over by the English, Germans and French because of its strategic position.

With such a wide variety of things to do and so easily accessible, it's no surprise that Elba gets booked solid during the summer months, so plan accordingly.

Getting There

The ferry to Elba's Porto Ferraio runs frequently and takes just 1 hour from the mainland port of Piombino.

For a more off-the-beaten-track diving experience, see Diving in Giannutri

Photo of Elba from www.istockphoto.com